PHUKTAL / PHUKTHAR MONASTERY

When we speak of PHUGTAL MONASTERY or PHUKTAR GOMPA, the word “REMOTE” assumes its actual meaning in describing its existence / dwelling in one of the obscure corner of the LUNGNAK valley. PHUGTAL monastery OR THE PHUKTAR Gompa is one of the hidden gems of the ZANSKAR region. The construction of the monastery is a blend of mud and timber built at the entrance of a natural cave. From a distance, the monastery resembles a giant honeycomb emerging from a cave on the cliff face of a lateral gorge on the Lingti-Tsarap river which is a major tributary of the LUNGNAK river. It joins the KARYAG river at Purne & then continues as the LUNGNAK river till PADUM. The tiny windows of the monastery & the structures around emerging from the cave resemble a honeycomb and hence the name “Honeycomb Monastery”.

First glimpse of the hidden gem of the ZANSKAR region, "The PHUKTHAR MONASTERY"

The name Phuktal is made up of Phuk meaning ‘cave’, and Tal or Thal meaning ‘at leisure’. An alternate spelling of Phuktal is Phukthar, where Thar means ‘liberation’. Hence, the name PHUKTHAR means ‘the cave of leisure’ or ‘the cave of liberation’.

The ZANSKAR Valley itself is classified as a remote valley & the PHUKTHAR monastery is one of the most isolated monastery in the south eastern ZANSKAR region of the LADAKH district. PHUKTHAR’s design and its secluded rarefied location is of spiritual significance because many ancient travelling monks sheltered and meditated in the caves of this area. The monastery houses four prayer rooms, a library, teaching facilities, a kitchen, guest rooms and living quarters for approximately 70 monks in the residence. The PHUKTAL monastery gets disconnected from the rest of the world during winters.  Supplies to the monastery are transported on horses / mules during the summer season. 

The Monastery was electrified by Global Himalayan Expedition in July 2016 by setting up solar micro-grids.

HOW MANY DAYS ARE REQUIRED TO COVER ZANSKAR

A visit to the ZANSKAR valley is invariably linked to the LADAKH itinerary & hence assumes a very unjust & insignificant time allocation for its coverage. But a visit to the ZANSKAR valley cannot be considered to be complete without getting a taste of its spiritual culture & local hospitality. Most of the journey covers the diverse landscapes ranging from the green SURU valley, PARAKCHIK glacier, RANGDUM, PENZI LA, DRANG DRUNG glacier & the long remote stretches. I have seen people considering ZANSKAR as a touch down point and returning back the next day.

In most of the itineraries, a visit to the ZANSKAR valley does not include more than 3 or 4 days, out of which 2 complete days are spend on the to & fro travel time.  The remaining 1-2 days are good enough to cover the local sightseeing. However, if you want to include PHUKTHAR monastery in your ZANSKAR itinerary, it would require at 2 additional days. Till 2019, the same itinerary used to take about 4 days, since the motorable road was till ICHAR. Thanks to the BRO for the wonderful job & the motorable road has now been extended till PURNE & another 2 1/2 kms further. You have to leave your vehicle 2 1/2 kms beyond PURNE & then hike the remaining distance. The actual trekking is now only 1 1/2 hours till the monastery & 1 1/2 hrs back to the parking point. However, this 1 1/2 hours trek is a mix of about 7-8 steep ascends & descends. I must say that at 15000 feet, its quite an exhaustive trek. YOU MUST BE REALLY FIT TO UNDERGO THIS. Say about after 1 hour of the trek, you will descend to find a well constructed wooden bridge across the TSARAP river. From the bridge, you can see the gate of the PHUKTHAR monastery. Another ascend would take you to the PHUKTHAR monastery in the next 25-30 minutes. 

 

Hence I would recommend as follows

  • 4 days (Kargil – Padum – Kargil) without PHUGTAL monastery trek
  • 6 days (Kargil – Padum – Kargil) with PHUGTAL monastery trek. 

HOW TO REACH PHUKTHAR MONASTERY:- PHUKTAL monastery can be reached by 2 routes. The commonly used route is from PADUM to PHUKTAL. The other route is from the Manali side via DARCHA & SHINKU LA. 

The way to the PHUGTAL monastery is a mix of a motorable journey & trekking the rest of it. In this article, we will cover a day wise itinerary. We all have been blessed by the relentless efforts of the BRO in paving a motorable path, which now extends till PURNE & another 2 1/2 kms further enroute PHUKTHAR. The last kilometre drive is extremely narrow, treacherous & should be attempted by an experienced driver only.

The treacherous stretch enroute Phuktal Monastery.
Continuous 7-8 ascends & descends with narrow paths
The last point 2 1/2 km beyond Purne till where you can take your vehicle.as on May 2022
There are 4-5 such spots enroute, where there is barely a foothold.
At a distance you will see the wooden bridge
The old bridge on the right side & the new wooden bridge on the left.
There is not even a foothold on the old bridge. Really don't know how people used to travel
From the new bridge you can see the entrance of the Phukthar Monastery

OPTION 1 (PADUM – PURNE- PHUKTHAR-PURNE-PADUM)

  • Day 1:- PADUM-4-5 hrs drive (65 kms) -PURNE – (overnight at PURNE). If you start early & reach PURNE by 12:00 noon-01:00 pm, you also have the option of reaching PHUKTHAR monastery on the same day & returning back to PURNE for the overnight stay.  Alternately..
  • DAY 2:- Start early at 06:00 am-2.5 kms drive till the last point by vehicle – trek (1 1/2 hrs) upto PHUKTHAR. Return back to PURNE by 12:00 noon. PURNE – 4-5 hrs drive (65 kms) back to PADUM.
IMPORTANT NOTE:-
  • If you are short on time, you can also look at starting early from PADUM, cover PHUKTHAR & return back to PADUM on the same day. It is doable, but would be tiresome.
The Entrance at PHUKTHAR
  • Roads from PADUM till RARU (18 kms) are good tarmac, but the remaining 47 kms is all offroad. Require a good 4WD /AWD or at least a Rear Wheel Drive vehicle. FWD SUV’s, sedans, hatchbacks & any other low ground clearance vehicles are not recommended. FWD SUV’s may be able to make it, but would be difficult. I have seen a NISSAN KICKS enroute, but apart from it, there were no other FWD vehicles. 

OPTION 2 (PADUM-PURNE-PHUKTHAR-MANALI / SARCHU via SHINKU LA) Highly Recommended since you enter from Kargil & exit on the MANALI side. There is no need to backtrack to KARGIL. You can directly connect LEH via SHINKU LA  & SARCHU.  

  • Day 1:- PADUM-4-5 hrs drive (65 kms) -PURNE – (overnight at PURNE). If you start early & reach PURNE by 12:00 noon-01:00 pm, you also have the option of reaching PHUKTHAR monastery on the same day & returning back to PURNE for the overnight stay.  Alternately..
  • DAY 2:- Start early at 06:00 am-2.5 kms till the last point by vehicle- trek (1 1/2 hrs) upto PHUKTHAR. Return back to PURNE by 12:00 noon. Checkout & start for Manali (181 kms). A drive of about 8 hrs.
  • Enroute halt at GONBO RANGJON to spend a moment at the majestic peak in the KARYAG village worshipped by the locals. Halt at SHINKU LA to experience the mesmerizing beauty of the pass & the surrounding region. 

IMPORTANT POINTS during PHUKTAL Monastery Trek

  • Option 2 is recommended provided you have a 4WD /AWD /RWD vehicle. Ascend for SHINKU LA from the ZANSKAR side will require an AWD / 4WD or at least a REAR Wheel Drive vehicle. For FWD SUV’s vehicles, Option 1 is recommended. This status is as on May 2022.  
  • Sedans & hatchbacks are seen everywhere, but are not recommended for ZANSKAR due to low ground clearance.  Crossovers, & vehicles like NEXON, SONET, BREEZA, URBAN CRUISER & VENUE (high ground clearance vehicles) would be able to do option 1. 
  • Starting from Manali side is not recommended due to AMS issues. Manali is at 6000 feet & PURNE at 15000 feet. Sleeping at PURNE would make you vulnerable to AMS easily.. 
  • Ensure that you are acclimatized at PADUM for at least 2 nights, before you proceed to PHUKTHAR Monastery.
  • Carry 3-4 ltrs of water to keep yourself adequately hydrated.
  • Carry medicines like pain killers, spray, Diamox with you.
  • At higher altitudes, Sun is extremely harsh. So, please carry good sunglasses, caps, sun screen lotions, Vaseline / lip balm and woolens for the night.
  • 2 Homestay options are available at PURNE. They charge Rs.1000-1200 per person including stay, dinner & breakfast. 
  • There is one guest house at the PHUKTAL monastery & at PURNE. But I am not sure, if it is functional, but you have the option to stay at the Monastery, which itself would be a good experience,
  • Food options would be limited to simple basic local food. Dhabas are available at GONBO RANGJON.
  • BSNL & JIO network is limited to Padum town only. Satellite phones are available at CHA & PHUKTAL to be in touch with your loved ones.
The Majestic PHUKTHAR monastery in all it radiance
A view from the PHUKTHAR monastery terrace (left side)
The Monastery Structure embedded in the cave
The Kitchen at the Phukthar Monastery
A view from the Phuktar Monastery terrace (right side)
The Main prayer hall at the Phukthar Monastery

PHUKTAL MONASTIC SCHOOL.

In 1993, PHUKTAL monastic school was set up by the PHUKTAL GOMPA. The school provides free of cost education, lodging, boarding & study material to the students who come from poor and underprivileged farming families of the Lungnak Valley. The teachings imparted are a blend of the traditional culture & modern curriculum to the students.

PHUKTAL 2015 NATURAL CALAMITY

A natural dam was created in the narrow gorge when a landslide occurred between the Shun & Phuktal villages on the 31st December 2014. It is still not clear what exactly triggered that landslide It formed a long catchment area as water level increased in height (about 200 feet) & length (about 15 kms) behind the dam. A sudden reduction of flow in the river at the downstream Nimoo Bazgo Hydropower project of NHPC Ltd raised the suspicion of the landslide and this was ascertained only after a flight over the river path two weeks after the landslide occurred. 

As quoted by reliable sources, on Feb 12, 2015, a team of four persons landed on the river block for the first time since the landslide, with the help of Air Force Helicopters to take stock of the situation on ground. A competent team surveyed the site at an altitude of more than 14000 feet and in freezing conditions. As a result of the study, the dimensions of the blockage was 400 m long along the river bed, 50 m high (equivalent to a 20 storey building) and 100 m wide across the river bed. While the chance of a catastrophic flood is lower in winter with the lake frozen, the risk was bound to increase when temperatures rise in the spring

The dam on Phutkal River (also known as Tsarap River) at 13000 feet altitude was expected to burst on the onset of summer, and it did at 8.10 am on Thursday, May 7, 2015, leading to washing away of some three motorable bridges, ten suspension bridges located at different palces including Ichar, Padum, Tipting, Chah and Pipcha, numerous culverts, two school buildings, guest houses, residential houses, irrigation canals, pony treks and land pastures, as reported by The Tribune on May 9, 2015. This report mentions that 70-80% of stored water has been released, which means about 20-30 % of stored water is still held back, creating possibilities of future flash floods. Some 3000 people were evacuated from the 40 river bank villages in the 90 km stretch from the landslide dam to Padum (headquarter of the Zanskar sub-division of Kargil District) area as a precautionary measure. Fortunately, there seems to be no deaths as far as news available so far. The flood from the bursting of the 15 km long reservoir behind the landslide dam released over thirty million cubic meters of water and silt and led to damage to a school building too, it was reported. 

HISTORY

The PHUKTAL monastery belongs to the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. It was founded in the early 15th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a disciple of Tsongkhapa established Phugtal gompa. The cave is believed to have been used for about 2,500 years by monks for meditation, much before the monastery was constructed. Three eminent scholars who also happened to be brothers Dangsong, Pun and Sum were believed to be blessed with the supernatural power of flying had imparted teachings on dharma at Phugtal. When Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a Tibetan Buddhist Guru arrived at Phugtal, the three brothers bequeathed the holy site to him and left. According to legend, the spiritually gifted Zangpo caused a spring to appear and flow from the cave, a tree to grow on top of the cave and for the cave itself to grow larger in size! Then, under his guidance, the structure of the monastery was built around the cave.  Zangpo left for the heavenly abode in 1457 at the age of sixty-two.

AMCHI

The Phuktal Gompa houses a Traditional Tibetan medical clinic, catering to the local community. There is an on-site Amchi, a traditional Tibetan physician who provides natural Sowa-Rigpa medicine, many of which have been prepared at the monastery itself. A visual diagnosis, consisting mainly of examination of the urine, eyes and tongue, the pulse diagnosis and questioning the patient. The pulse diagnosis is performed by the amchi placing his fingers in several different positions on the wrists to feel the pulses. He can then feel the state of the energies and their balance as well as the condition of the internal organs. The communication between the amchi and the patient is very important because it reveals additional information about the nature of the patient’s complaints. In certain cases, amchi will press specific points on the body, which not only provides further information on the patient’s condition, but it’s effect is also an energy-balancing treatment

 The village life in the Lungnak Valley revolves around the monastery. Monks from the monastery attend local village events of significance, such as birth, deaths and weddings, performing traditional prayer ceremonies. The villagers visit the monastery to offer prayers, consult the Amchi and to attend festivals and special events at the monastery.

In this article, I have provided information available on the remotest monastery of the ZANSKAR region. If you find this article useful, please share it with your friends & near ones aspiring to travel to the Zanskar Valley. 

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