PANGONG TSO
After the hit of the Megabuster Bollywood Movie “3 Idiots” in 2009, PANGONG lake has emerged as the most desired place in Ladakh. A visit to Ladakh without a trip to Pangong Tso is not considered to be complete.
PANGONG Lake or PANGONG TSO is one of the most beautiful hidden gems of Ladakh. The mesmerizing beauty of the crystal clear aqua blue waters, the contrast barren colors of the surrounding snowcapped mountains, the serene atmosphere which one can experience gives a romantic touch to an evening on the banks of the Pangong Lake. The everchanging aqua green / blue colors of the pristine lake in response to the different shades of light during the course of the day gives it a different aura throughout the day.
My first visit to Leh was in 2000, when this lake was not so popular. Neither did we have the time to fit it in our itinerary, nor were we aware of what we were going to miss. During that time, about 80% of the tourist in Ladakh were foreigners. Indian tourists were very rare in the Ladakh region.
PANGONG Tso is a brackish water lake. There are no fish or other aquatic life on the Indian side of the lake, except for some small crustaceans. On the other hand, visitors see numerous ducks and gulls over and on the lake surface.
The lake acts as an important breeding ground for a variety of birds including a number of migratory birds. During summer, the Bar-headed goose and Brahmini ducks are commonly seen here. The region around the lake supports a number of species of wildlife including the kiang and the marmot.
Formerly, Pangong Tso had an outlet to Shyok River, a tributary of Indus River, but it was closed off due to natural damming. Two streams feed the lake from the Indian side, forming marshes and wetlands at the edges. Strand lines above current lake level reveal a 5 m (16 ft) thick layer of mud and laminated sand, suggesting the lake has shrunken recently in geological scale The low biodiversity has been reported as being due to high salinity and harsh environmental conditions.
GEOGRAPHY
Pangong Lake is located at a height of 14,270 feet about sea level, at a distance of 158 kms from Leh. The waters of this enchanting lake are about 5 kms wide at its broadest point & stretches 134 kms long in Tibet. Out of the entire stretch, 40% of the lake is in the Indian territory, while 60% lies in the Tibet.
THINGS TO DO AT PANGONG TSO
- Watching the beauty of the lake itself is the main attraction of Pangong Tso. You can visit the spot where the climax scene of “3 IDIOTS” was shot. It’s a beautiful place to spend the evening. Watch the blue skies in the backdrop of the barren mountains & the pristine blue waters.
- In the evening, make a barbeque and place a bonfire. It may be difficult to leave the warmth of your tent, but this unique experience would be something memorable.
- Watch the starry skies in the night. You would never have seen the skies full of so many stars. Immerse your soul in the oneness of the skies & the universe. Carry a camera to capture such splendid moments.
- Many tourists make a one day trip to Pangong due to time limitations. I strongly recommend you to make an overnight stay at Pangong & then return to LEH OR proceed further to TSOMORIRI / HANLE. In a single day trip to PANGONG, you would not be able to experience the true beauty of this heavenly place.
WHEN CAN I VISIT PANGONG LAKE
Tourism in Ladakh opens up by the end of May & lasts till early October. Most of the tented accommodations, homestays, restaurants open up during this period & a wide assortment of stay options are thrown open to the inflow of tourists. This is the best time to visit PANGONG TSO. The snow has completely melted & the multi colored shades of the lake are a feast to your eyes.
PANGONG would be accessible through the year except for some times when CHANGLA pass would be closed due to heavy snowfall. However, stay options would be very limited to a few homestays & guest houses at Tangste, Spangmik, Man & Merak. The weather would be harsh & unbearable. Its generally not recommended to visit Pangong during this time. However, if you are keen on seeing the frozen Pangong Lake, you can do it in January or February after checking the weather conditions in Leh. During winters, the lake freezes and it becomes possible to even walk over it, although its not the best idea to try doing so.
HOW DO I REACH PANGONG TSO
There are four routes to reach PANGONG
ROUTE 1 LEH to PANGONG (169 kms)
LEH – 34 kms – KARU – 14 kms – SAKTI – 34 kms – CHANG LA – 29 kms – DURBUK – 10 kms – TANGSTE – 35 kms – LUKUNG – 13 kms – SPANGMIK :- TOTAL 169 kms.
This is a conventional route for tourist starting from LEH to PANGONG Lake. It takes about 6 hours to cover this 169 kms stretch. The road is completely tarred except for a short stretch of 5 kms before CHANG LA (on Leh side) & 10 kms after CHANG LA (on the PANGONG side). The last 5 kms before CHANGLA are quite tough with some snow covered surfaces, loose grave, steep incline & scarcity of oxygen. Bikers are required to be cautious in maneuvering, since the engines gasps for oxygen. You can visit the CHANGLA baba temple at CHANGLA pass. There is a military canteen, which can offer you a cup of tea. I had even eaten vegetable momos during one of my journeys. Believe me in that cold, you would bite into anything which comes across. Take photographs at the 3rd highest motorable pass at 17,450 feet, enjoy the snow capped views of the adjoining mountains. Beyond CHANG LA, the next descend of 10 kms continues on bad roads. There is a wide water crossing at the end of the descend. The force of the flowing water is quite strong, but doable on bikes. Roads thereafter till Durbuk & Tangste continue to be good. At Tangste, you would be required to register with a copy of your permit. Except for a few small sand covered stretches beyond Tangste, the road continues to be good till Spangmik. As you approach Pangong, you will see a stretch of water which mostly is mistook for Pangong, but it’s a small catchment area. About an hour or so after Tangste, you will see a blue stretch of water on the horizon at LUKUNG. Beyond LUKUND the road runs parallel to the lake. It runs upwards on a small Ghat & descends further to Spangmik.
ROUTE 2 :- NUBRA to PANGONG TSO
If you are travelling to NUBRA valley, there exists two routes which can directly take you to Pangong Tso. Since most of the tourists coming to Ladakh do not want to miss out on NUBRA & PANGONG, it is recommended that you save one day of your travel back to Leh & reach PANGONG directly. The below 2 routes would help you reach PANGONG directly.
NUBRA to PANGONG TSO (via WARI LA)
Diskit – 22 kms – Khalsar – 26 kms – Agham – 34 kms – Wari La –22 kms – Tathok – 3 kms – Sakti – 34 kms – Chang La – 32 kms – Durbuk –10 kms – Tangste – 35 kms- Lukung –10 kms- Spangmik :- TOTAL 228 kms
This is a desolate high altitude pass and a longer route of the two routes from NUBRA to PANGONG TSO. It would take about 10-12 hours to cover the 228 kms and reach PANGONG via WARI LA depending on your speed & the intermittent breaks. However, till a few years ago, this was considered to be the only route, since the direct route via SHYOK was highly unpredictable & very difficult.
WARI LA is at a height of 17,427 feet, at a distance of 73 kms from Leh & 82 kms from DISKIT. The ascend toward WARI LA is very steep & your vehicle would gasp out of breath due to the low oxygen levels. There are a few nasty water crossing enroute. The route via WARI LA is very isolated, challenging & it would be a nightmare if you are stuck up with a vehicle breakdown. It could be hours before you could get help. Hence, if you are approaching on this route, you need to be prepared. I personally would not recommend travelling solo on this route due to the nature of the road & the route’s isolation. If you are a couple of riders OR in a group, then no problem. If you are on a self drive, carry the necessary tools and equipment just in case of any emergency.
Please check at Agham village about the road conditions at WARI LA before you proceed. In case you are travelling solo, please see if you can tag along with any ongoing vehicles on the route. No special permits are required to travel on this route.
ROUTE 3:- HUNDER to PANGONG (via SHYOK VILLAGE)
Hunder – 13 kms = Diskit – 22 kms – Khalsar – 26 kms – Agham – 47 kms – Shyok Village -15 kms Durbuk –10 kms – Tangste – 35 kms- Lukung –10 kms- Spangmik :- TOTAL 165 kms
This route has been the most intrigued one due to its shortest distance between NUBRA & PANGONG TSO. Another angle which had added to its attraction & curiosity was the prohibitorily high difficulty level of this route. “Z”section water crossings, landslide prone areas & uneven roads had always posed a challenge to any driver.
Offlate, the scenario has changed and road conditions have improved making the route doable for 2 & 4 wheeler vehicles, thanks to the BRO for all their efforts in the midst of the extreme climatic conditions and adversities. Especially, when you are travelling on such tricky sections, flow of water streams tend to become stronger as the day progresses. There is a huge difference in crossing such sections in the morning & in late afternoon (typically after 02:00-03:00 pm). The best option is to start early and reach early.
Hunder to Khalsar section is one of the most beautiful section with gigantic mountains, vast valleys, tarred roads till the horizon. Shortly beyond KHALSAR the road begins to ascend when you come across two roads at an intersction. The road on the right goes to Leh via Khardung La & the left road goes to AGHAM. Take the Agham road & enter the Shyok Valley. Most of the road travels alongside the SHYOK river (literally means the River of Death). The river is known for its unpredictability. This road would take you through all kinds of terrains.
At Agham, please take a feedback from the oncoming vehicles on the road conditions before you proceed. WARI LA route is longer & desolate, but not as dangerous as the SHYOK route.
At AGHAM, the road further divides into 2 paths. It is indicated by a small sign, which could most likely be missed out (keep a tab on the speedometer to ensure that you have not crossed it). The one on the right goes to Sakti Village via WARI LA & the road towards the left proceeds on the banks of the SHYOK river to SHYOK village.
The next few kilometres, you would find yourself crossing riverbeds, juggling with boulders, looking out for sharp stones. At times early in July, when the SHYOK river water level swells, these stretches become very difficult to maneuver. You would even find 4 x 2 mid range SUV’s struggling to get across these stretches
Read my article on Offroading & maneuvering on tricky sections
.Of course, the 4 x 4 vehicles would find it quite manageable. But indeed it’s a different experience which one should go through. Out of the complete route, the Agham to Shyok section is the most toughest. Beyond Shyok village till Durbuk, the drive is quite scenic compared to the SHYOK river. At Durbuk, the road reconnects to the Leh – Pangong Lake road.
STAY OPTIONS AT PANGONG LAKE
Some 2 decades ago in 2000, when I visited Leh for the first time with my 3 friends, Pangong Lake was a name which was rarely heard. In fact, I had mentioned in my article that about 80% of the tourists were foreigners. If I recollect now, I feel like kicking myself for not visiting Pangong Lake in 2000 since we were just not sure whether making a 2 day trip to see a lake would be worth it or not. After the release of the superhit movie “3 Idiots” in 2009, tourism in Ladakh has sprouted from all angles. Stay options at Pangong Lake have started expanding to meet the increasing demand of the tourists. Today as we speak, there are countless options ranging from Rs.300 to Rs.10,000 at Pangong Lake.
Hotel tariffs are negotiable & would depend on demand / supply conditions. If you try to pre-book them, there is very less scope for negotiations. If you are very particular about the facilities & the quality of the accommodation, stay etc. you should pre-book it.
However, the best option would be to start EARLY & reach EARLY (say by 03:00 pm – 04:00 pm) & directly approach them. Based on the availability of accommodation, you can bargain for good rates. Reach early & approach tented accommodations which has no tourists or a few tourists. They would be more inclined to close the deal of unsold rooms. If you arrive late, they can sense your urgency & may not be as responsive to your bargaining, especially if you are with your family. In an online / direct pre-booking, you may not be assured of a specific room. Mostly, those who are booked take the privilege to reach as per their convenience & end up with left over rooms (of course from the same category).
Stay at Pangong Lake are available in 4 options.
- Luxurious Tented Accomodation / Camp Sites.
This is the most popular accommodation option at Pangong Tso. These camp sites are put up on the banks of the Pangong Lake offering excellent views from the doorstep. They are advertised at almost every online booking site OR have their own websites. Prices quoted are at a premium in the range of Rs.2,500-Rs.10,000/- with all inclusions. You have the option to pre-book such tented accommodation. If you are travelling with a family & seeking peace of mind, then you may choose this (although I personally never recommend to pre-book). Pangong Lake being an offbeat destination, please do not expect too much. In general, electric supply would be available for 4-5 hours between 07:00 pm to 11:00 pm. Hot water would be provided in buckets only in the mornings. Clean tents with 2-3 beds with blankets would be provided. Prices are inclusive of dinner & morning breakfast.
2.Unfeatured Tented Accomodation / Camp Sites.
This type in my opinion is the best amongst all the options. These are similar to the above category, but you won’t find any listing on websites OR online booking portals. In terms of the facilities, these Tented accommodations would be more or less at par with the above category. One such option is PADMA HOMESTAY. They have tents right on the shore of the Pangong Lake. The tents were clean, spacious & with attached baths. You can directly reach them & negotiate. Similarly, there are other tented accommodations too. Rates would range between Rs.700-1200 per person depending on the extent to which they are booked / occupied. The best option is to reach a little early (say by 04:00pm) & check for tented options which are not occupied / least occupied. They may quote anything, but the above range is a benchmark. You can bargain hard & depending on the availability, they would be responsive to your negotiations
3.CHADAR TENTS / Common Tents.
Dormitory stay would be a more appropriate word for your understanding. These are big tents with a kitchen in the front side & beds on the rear side. For Budget Travellers, this is the best option. Mostly people reach Pangong by the evening, and check out by the next morning after breakfast. After dinner, all you have to do is to hit the bed. These are very economical in the range of Rs.250-300/- excluding food.
4.HOMESTAYS
Almost every house in the village serves as a Homestay for travellers. Those who want to experience the warmth of the local folk, can approach the localites. This would be the most appropriate way to mingle amongst the villagers, take a feel of the culture & the lifestyle of the residents. They would most gladly take you through the history of Pangong Lake. To know more about Pangong & Ladakh, nothing can be a better idea than this. Charges would be very nominal between Rs.500-1000/- per person including dinner & breakfast. Additionally, you can experience the local Ladakhi cuisine.
Other options like Hotels & Guest Houses are almost negligible except for the PANGONG CAMP RESORT managed by the JKTDC & a few more are heard of. I have always stayed in PADMA TENTS & have always reached them directly without any pre-booking. Few of the stay options are listed below.
- PADMA HOME STAY (TENTED ACCOMODATION)
- Address :- Spangmik, Ladakh.
- Tel :- 9469515696 and 9469059322.
- Price :- Rs.800-1000 per person including dinner & breakfast.
- Review :- I had personally stayed at PADMA Tented Accomodation for 3 times in 2013, 2015 & 2017. I found it to be the most economically priced tented accommodation. Tents are at a stones throw from the lake and located right opposite to the check post at Spangmik. Of course, although not luxurious, tents are quite spacious, comfortable & clean with attached western toilets. Recommended for families too.
- GONGMA HOMESTAY
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Lake Road, Leh Ladakh – 194201
- Tel :- +91-9469534270.
- WONDERLAND CAMP
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Tso, Ladakh
- Tel :- 094191 77723
- PANGONG DELIGHT CAMP
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Tso, Ladakh
- Tel :- +91-94192 18649 / 9596811649
- PANGONG CAMP RESORT JKTDC
- Address :- Spangmik, About 2 kms before Spangmik & Opposite to the 3 Idiots Shooting Point, Pangong Tso, Ladakh
- Tel :- 0191 254 9065
- Price Range :- Rs. 3500 -4000/-
- Review :- The only cemented accommodation in Pangong. Comfortable rooms with attached bathrooms, good food, hot water provided in buckets. Need to pre-book, but is overpriced for the facilities, but is a most ideal option for families.
- PANGONG RESORT & CAMP
- Tel : +91 94-19-178903
- Email : lumbini.hotel.group@gmail.com
- PANGONG RETREAT CAMP
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Lake Road, Ladakh 194101•
- Tel. :- +91-9906090229
- Leh :- Overland Escape, Raku Complex, Fort Road, Leh, Ladakh 194101
- Tel :- +91 1982 252105 / 252108 / +91 8491947042
- E-mail :- info@pangongretreat.com / info@overlandescape.com
- Review :- On the basis of the reviews taken from other websites, the place appears to be quite decent with spacious tents with attached western toilets, courteous hospitable staff etc.
- HIMALAYAN RETREAT
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong, Ladakh.
- Tel :- 022-6150 6363.
- Email :- himalayanretreatpangong@nivalink.co.in
- Review :- Good reviews of this place. Quite suitable for families. Decent places, spacious tents with attached western toilets & good staff.
CAREFULLY PLAN YOUR TRIP TO PANGONG TSO.
PANGONG Lake being a high altitude lake, there is a scarcity of oxygen at that altitude. It is therefore essential, that your body is properly acclimatized to suit itself. On arrival in Leh by Flight / Bus, it is essential that you spend a couple of days in Leh OR do some local sight seeing before you proceed to Pangong Lake. Acute Mountain Sicknes (AMS ) is very common and if not attended can even be fatal. There are many cases in every season of people getting hospitalized & ruining the whole trip. Patients with a prior history of any Lungs & Heart ailment should use their doctor’s advise before proceeding for high altitudes. For safety purpose, you can carry oxygen cannister for emergency.
TO SUMARIZE
I presume the above article would be able to give you a clear idea of Pangong Tso, the stay options, the routes to Pangong from various locations, the duration taken by each of them, the pleasures you stand to experience and the associated risks.
If you find this article helpful, please share the same with your friends, families & contacts.
You can also share your experiences, add details / updates on the subject. You are most welcome to put forward any travel questions which you would have in planning a trip to Ladakh. Please feel free to write to me in the comments section below.