NUBRA VALLEY
LADAKH region offers a diverse platter of enchanting places. High Mountain Passes, Adventurous roads, Crystal clear aqua Blue rivers, Barren Mountains, Mystic Valleys, Sparking Sand dunes & a lot more. NUBRA VALLEY in the Ladakh region, situated at an average height of 10,000 feet above sea level & 114 kms from Leh is one such MUST visit mesmerizing destination. The peace and tranquility of this region is astounding & you can feel that Life comes to a standstill. In Tibetan language, the NUBRA valley is also called as “LDUMRA” (means Valley of Flowers). Its inhabited areas form a tri-armed valley cut by the Nubra and Shyok rivers. Diskit, is the headquarters of Nubra, is about 114 km north from Leh, the capital of Ladakh.
The Shyok River meets the Nubra or Siachan River to form a large valley that separates the Ladakh and Karakoram Ranges. The Shyok river is a tributary of the Indus river. The access route to this valley is to travel over the Khardung La pass from Leh town.
The route passes through the KHARDUNG LA pass (39 kms from Leh) which is one of the most sought attraction for its so called claim of being the “Highest Motorable Road in the World” at an height of 18,380 feet. You can find an army camp housing a souvenir shop at the highest point & Sign boards to click photographs. The Khardungla Top has two stretches of 15 kms each on either sides. Just 25 kms after Leh, you reach at a spot called as “SOUTH PULLU”, where tourists are required to register themselves & ascend the next 15 kms to the KHARDUNGLA top. From the top, begins the descend of another 15 kms to the army base called as NORTH PULLU. This stretch of 30 kms is equally divided on both sides of the KHARDUNGLA top and is more of an offroad ride with some snow covered sections of the top. However, the slope is gradual and mostly doable on any vehicle. During May end OR early June, there would be snow & slush on the roads at the top. One has to be very careful while driving. As you descend, 19 kms further to North Pullu is the beautiful village of KHARDUNG. KHALSAR is further 24 kms from KHARDUNG & a point where the road branches. The left side of the road goes to
SECTION 1
LEH – 39 kms – KHARDUNGLA – 33 kms – KHARDUNG – 24 kms – KHALSAR – 21 kms -DISKIT – 7 kms – HUNDER – 19 kms – THOISE – 64 kms – TURTUK :- TOTAL 207 kms
SECTION 2
LEH – 39 kms – KHARDUNGLA – 33 kms – KHARDUNG – 24 kms – KHALSAR – 24 kms – SUMUR – 23 kms – PANAMIK – 35 kms – YARMA GOMPA – 5 kms – WARSHI :-TOTAL 183 kms
KHALSAR is the point at which the NUBRA valley is bisected into two valleys by a “Y” intersection. One valley continues along the SHYOK river till TURTUK, while the other side continues along with the NUBRA or SIACHEN river passing through SUMUR, PANAMIK till WARSHI villages. Till a few years ago, the NUBRA VALLEY was limited to Diskit & Hunder on one side & SUMUR, PANANAMIK on the other side of the “Y” intersection. Offlate, this has been extended till TURTUK on the DISKIT side & upto WARSHI on the PANAMIK side. A visit beyond WARSHI upto the SIACHEN base camp still remains limited to the Indian Army.
DO I REQUIRE INNER LINE PERMITS FOR NUBRA VALLEY
Since 1st April 2017 Indian citizens are also required to get an Inner Line Permit to visit the valley. Foreign nationals are required to get a Protected area permit to visit the Nubra Valley (Refer to the ILP section for details to apply)
WHERE DO I STAY IN THE NUBRA VALLEY
Well, I am certainly not of the opinion to do any hotel pre-booking, since Hotel tariffs are negotiable & would depend on demand / supply conditions. If you try to pre-book them, there is very less scope for negotiations.
However, if you are travelling with a larger sized family OR a group, it may be a little inconvenient to keep others stranded till you identify the right place. It also depends on the kind of members travelling with you. In case you are travelling with very small children (of course below 4 years, I would not recommend) & aged parents, then certainly it may be discreet to pre-book at least the Ist day of the stay. Secondly, if you are very particular about the facilities & the quality of the accommodation, stay etc. & budget is not a constraint, then you should pre-book it.
However, the best option would be to start EARLY & reach EARLY (say by 03:00 pm – 04:00 pm) to your destination & directly approach the Hotels / Guest Houses / Homestays. If you reach early, the Hotel staff would be more inclined to close the deal of unsold rooms. If you arrive late, they would sense your urgency & may not be as responsive to your bargaining, especially if you are with your family. They can very well sense that a person with a family will not hip hop at hotels. In an online / direct pre-booking, you may not be assured of a specific room. Mostly, those who have pre-booked take the privilege to reach as per their convenience & end up with left over rooms (of course from the same category). The good rooms (i.e. with good views, location) are sold to those who reach directly & negotiate.
Of course, it’s not a rocket science which I am telling you, but it’s a psychology which I have experienced during my travels.
How to reach NUBRA VALLEY.
By Air
The nearest Airport is Leh Airport (121 kms), which is well connected to the major cities in India.
By Train
Jammu is the nearest convenient railway station which is about 677 kms.
By Road
There are bus service from Leh to various parts in the Nubra Valley. Alhtough, frequency is not on a daily basis, there is an alternate day service to the main locations in the Nubra valley. Please refer to the Bus Services Article
Share Taxis from Leh.
You can get share taxis from the Polo Ground to Nubra Valley. While getting a Share taxi for DISKIT & HUNDER may be easy due to the constant flow of tourists, locations like TURTUK, SUMUR & PANAMIK would be bit difficult. Tourist should in such case opt for DISKIT / HUNDER or KHALSAR (for SUMUR & PANAMIK). From these locations, you can get further options for travel to Turturk, Sumur, Panamik & Warshi villages.
Direct Taxi
Of course, this option is available and it is recommended that you engage the taxi for the complete Nubra circuit & if possible link it to other destinations like Pangong, Hanle, Tsomoriri back to Leh / Manali.
Refer to the Rate Chart for NUBRA / Complete Circuit.
Self Drive
Feel free as a bird to explore the entire Ladakh on a Self Drive. No restrictions on your schedules, stop wherever you like. Of course, this is the best & the most economical option to drive down with your own car. Have the luxury of extending your stay at any place without getting bothered with the travel schedules. But please ensure that you are not hiring any self driven vehicles, since they would not be allowed beyond Leh. Self driving on Ladakh terrain is indeed not going to be easy. See my article on Self Drive.
BEST TIME TO VISIT NUBRA VALLEY.
By road, both the access routes to Leh (Srinager – Leh Highway & the Manali – Leh Highway) remain closed during November to May due to heavy snowfall. The only time slot available is from May to September / October.
GEOGRAPHY
Various tourist destinations in the Nubra Valley like Diskit, Hunder, Turtuk, Sumur, Panamik & Warshi are located within a distance ranging from 121 kms to 200 kms from Leh at an average altitude of 10,000 feet about sea level
WEATHER CONDITIONS
Summer temperature ranges from 10-25 degree Celsius, and winters are between minus 5 to 18 degrees.
WHAT TO SEE IN NUBRA
DISKITDISKIT
DISKIT MONASTERY
Diskit is a village and the headquarters of NUBRA subdivision of Leh and is located at a distance of 121 kms from Leh. Situated on the banks of the Shyok River, Diskit has many homestays and guest house options that are open throughout the year. The main market is a small place with a few tiny restaurants
The DISKIT MONASTERY offers a stupendous view of the entire NUBRA valley. You can feel the might of the gigantic towering mountains opposite to the Monastery forming the “Y” intersection of the NUBRA valley. Just sit outside the Monastery looking at the vast valleys and you will feel that time has stopped. You can see the 32 feet Buddha Statue below the monastery. Far off on the other side of the “Y” intersection, you can also see the SUMUR SAMSTANLING Monastery.. See the sparkling sand dunes of HUNDER under the contrast colors of the green vegetation along the SHYOK river and the backdrop of the barren mountains. It you ask me, in the entire LADAKH region, there is no place like the DISKIT monastery. Just before DISKIT, a small left turn takes you to DISKIT MONASTERY. A must visit once in a life time experience.
HISTORY
It belongs to the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism. It was founded by Changzem Tserab Zangpo, a disciple of Tsong Khapa, founder of Gelugpa, in the 14th century. It is a sub-gompa of the Thiksey gompa.
The monastery has statue of Cho Rinpoche (Crowned Buddha) in the prayer hall, a huge drum and several images of fierce guardian deities.
During the period 1643-1716 AD., the Mongol Gushri Khan seized both Mongolia and Tibet and became the king of united Mongolia and Tibet. Soon, the Mongol tribes and a powerful army of Tibetan reach Ladakh. The Mongols went on rampant raiding expeditions all over the Ladakh region during the reigns of King Delek Namgail. At that point of time, a group of Mongol army raided the Nubra Valley. Apparently, one of the Mongol generals, entered the shirne of Disket Monastary. Presenting himself in front of the Protector statues, he challenged the deities to protect the region. He stabbed the wooden floor with his dagger. When he got up, he stumbled as his clothes were struck under the dagger in the floor. He was so stunned & awestruck with what had happened suddenly, that presuming it to be a wrath of the deity, he fell down and dropped dead. His army left his body in the monastery before leaving. The monks of the monastery considered it as very auspicious and kept his head and right hand in the shrine room. One can still see his mummified head and right hand in shrine room of Diskit monastery.
FESTIVALS
A popular festival known as Dosmoche or the “Festival of the Scapegoat” is held in the precincts of the monastery in February during the winter season, which is largely attended by people from villages of the Nubra Valley. There is a custom of holding sacred dances during the festival of Gustor.
STAY OPTIONS AT DISKIT
Some of the known & verified options of stays are listed below. Personally, I have not stayed in all of these hotels. But I have studied views on various online booking websites.
Literal meaning of Hunder is hun-first, der to-establish, as the name goes this village was the first to establish in Nubra valley. Hunder village is the largest, most beautiful and a charming village. Hunder was the capital of Nubra valley when this valley was under the King Bagaram. His ruined palace and his private shrine can be still seen and worth visiting. He was famous for constructing skalzang mani wall on which there is a stone engraving of thousands of Buddha s names which is unique in entire Ladakh and Tibet.
Located just about 7 kms further to DISKIT is this small & beautiful town of HUNDER, which has a sizeable number of Homestays & Guest Houses. There is also an Army camp of the BRO. Between Hundar and Diskit lie the sand dunes. HUNDER is famous for its sparkling sand dunes & the double humped Bactrian Camels. The Hunder Monastery is also located here.
The main attraction of HUNDER is of course a Camel Ride on the double humped Bacterian Camels. You can enjoy a 15 min / 30 min ride on the Camel back & experience the heat of a desert during the day in an otherwise cold place like HUNDER.
There are several ruined buildings, including the ruins of the King’s palace & the Langchen Khar (“Elephant Palace”). There is a fort at the top of the hill, called Gula. Hundar also has two Buddhist temples: the white temple (Lhakhang Karpo) and the red temple (Lhakhang Marpo).
STAY OPTIONS AT HUNDER
THOISE
THOISE is a village about 19 kms from HUNDER and is a military Airbase in the NUBRA valley. While going further towards Turtuk, THOISE Airfield is on the right side just adjacent to the road. The slightly diagonal airstrip can be seen from the road. The airstrip is a critical facility enabling a quick inflow of men and material from the Indian interior to Siachen, a glacier, helipad and battleground near the Actual Ground Position Line between India and Pakistan.
THOISE is not a real name but an acronym “Transit Halt Of Indian Soldiers Enroute” (to Siachen). Thoise is about an hour and 20 minutes’ flight from Delhi.
TURTUK
Turtuk, an exotic Heavenly village is located on the banks of the Shyok river at a distance of 208 kms from Leh & at an altitude of 9,846 feet between Nubra & Baltistan. The population is about 3500 plus people. Geographically, Turtuk lies in the Baltistan Region and is one among four such villages in India, the other three being Tyakshi, Chalunkha and Dhothang. Turtuk is the last outpost of India at Dhothang after which Pakistan-controlled Gilgit-Baltistan begins. Turtuk is one of the gateways to the Siachen Glacier. Turtuk is known for its varieties of fruits especially apricots. While the pristine beauty of Turtuk had remained untouched ever since, the hospitality of the locals cannot go unnoticed.
LANGUAGES SPOKEN
Turtuk has a predominant Muslim population. The residents of Turtuk and its adjoining villages speak Balti language along with Ladakhi and Urdu. Balti language is like a confluence of Persian & Old Tibetan. In Balti language, the word Turtuk means “a desire to stay”. True to the meaning, this sentiment can be seen in the local people..
HISTORY
Prominently known as “a Village divided by a border”, Turtuk has many tales to narrate. This mysterious hamlet was once a part of the Pakistan Occupied territory of Kashmir until 1971 after which Turtuk was recaptured by Major Chewang Rinchen & India gained control of this strategic area. Post 1971, after its annexure in the Indian region, the local people found it very difficult to switch loyalties from Pakistan to India. Some of them had even served in the Pakistan Army before India’s take-over. Hence, expecting an overnight switchover of loyalties was impractical. Many residents also have relatives living across the Line of Control who are subjected to intimidation by the ISI. During the Kargil infiltration by Pakistan, some of the local people were suspected to have assisted the infiltrators. The Indian Army took some of them into custody, but later released all of them. The local people are said to be grateful for the consideration shown by the Army and currently support the Army’s initiatives such as the Operation Sadbhavana.
For years, Turtuk was kept secluded not only by the government, but by its uniquely imposing geography cradled by the Karakoram mountains. Due to its strategic geopolitical location and a military border, it remained closed to outsiders, even for the Indians in the next 39 years, until locals, weary of their long isolation, petitioned for the remote, scenic valley to open up for tourism.
As confirmed by locals in Turtuk, during one of my visit to this place, there existed a trade route between BATALIK & TURTUK. Although, the road route between these two locations is approximately 400 kms, this route which goes through the mountain ranges is just 40 kms (approx.). The locals used to trek this route with their horses / mules.
Turtuk is comprises of 3 different regions. The upper region after crossing the wooden bridge is the one where Turtuk was decades ago. It has expanded downwards on the banks of the Shyok river.
Chutang :- Chutang is located on the Banks of the river. It’s a hub of all educational & cultural activities. There is health centre too in Chutang.
Yul:- The word “Yul” means a village. This is the oldest place in Turtuk. Farming activities are done and it is lush green with vegetation.
Farol :- To reach Farol, you would have to cross the old wooden bridge. This place is inhabited with Guest Houses & Residences of the localites. All around you will see wheatbuck fields strewn across. One can see the K-2 peak from here.
WHAT TO SEE in TURTUK
STAY OPTIONS AT TURTUK
There are no luxury hotels in this idyllic village. You will find quite a few home stays & guesthouses. The hospitality of this Balti Village is incomparable. A few of these are
ASHOOR GUEST HOUSE
Address :- Turtuk, Nubra Valley, Ladakh
Tel. :- 01980 248104/982050211/9419800776.
E-mail :- info@ashoorguesthouseturtuk.com
Website :- www.ashoorguesthouseturtuk.com
Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, with running hot & cold water,multi cuisine restaurant, free parking, laundry, power backup & room service. I have personally stayed at Ashoor Guest House & my experience is quite good.
Tel. :- +91-9419112174IMPORTANT INFORMATION
SUMUR
Located in the NUBRA Valley on the Right Side of the “Y” intersection, at an altitude of 10,157 feet and at a distance of 120 kms from Leh & 24 kms from KHALSAR is SUMUR village resting on the banks of the SIACHEN river. This amazingly picturesque settlement is a green spot in the NUBRA valley with vast expanses of fields. SUMUR offers an assortments of attractions like the SAMSTANLING, SUMUR & the CHARU monasteries. Its quite a peaceful village compared to HUNDER which has become an overcrowded hub due being the most preferred in the NUBRA valley. So people preferring some peace & solace can opt to stay at SUMUR. If you are keen to explore places on the Right Side of the “Y” intersection like PANAMIK, YARMA & upto WARSHI, an overnight stay at SUMUR can be considered as good option compared to Hunder which would be about 50-52 kms away.
There is also a lake by the name of YARAB TSO near the village. It is said that if you are spiritual enough, you can actually see the Potala Palace of Tibet in the magical Yarab Tso Lake. Very few tourists are aware of the existence of this wonderful gem of Ladakh. One can reach the lake by trekking for an hour from Sumur. You can always take a local to guide you & feed you with the history.
STAY OPTIONS AT SUMUR
PANAMIK
Located at a distance of 143 kms from Leh & 23 kms further to SUMUR, PANAMIK is a place known for Hot Water Springs emerging from the adjacent mountains. There is a proper concrete structure made out with provisions for changing clothes & taking a bath for men & women.
It’s my personal opinion, if you had visited Hot Water Spring sites like MANIKARAN, VASHISTH KUND & TATTAPANI in the Himachal Pradesh, PANAMIK would be a disappointment to you. The emerging water springs were hardly visible & the water is diverted & stored in a small pool inside a concrete structure.
Ensa Gompa is another revered monastery perched on the mountain top across the Siachen river. One can experience an amazing view from the village of Panamik. This 400-year-old Gompa is famous for Buddhist murals and was an important learning center for nearby villages.
STAY OPTIONS AT PANAMIK
WARSHI VILLAGE
Loated at a distance of 182 kms from Leh in the Nubra Valley, WARSHI village has been thrown open recently to the Indian tourist. You would not require any specific permits to reach WARSHI, but SIACHEN base camp is not permitted for civilians, it being a border area. WARSHI is about 39 kms further to PANAMIK. Beyond Panamik, you can now add TAKSHA, SASOMA & WARSHI. YARMA GOMPA, YARMA GONBU can be covered enroute WARSHI.
Opening of these routes for the tourists has greatly helped the locals, since the entire Ladakh region depends heavily on tourism. With the inflow of tourists, numerous avenues have opened up for the locals to serve tourism.
TO SUMARIZE
I presume the above article would be able to help you with the planning for NUBRA VALLEY This article gives a fair idea of the number of Days to be plannd, routes to be taken, stay options, sight seeing places,
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You can also share your experiences, add details / updates on the subject. You are most welcome to put forward any travel questions which you would have in planning a trip to Ladakh. Please feel free to write to me in the comments section below.