MONASTERY TOUR
More prominently known as a Monastery Tour day, you can get yourself moving around in Leh to facilitate acclimatization & visit some unique Monasteries & places around Leh. Do not stress yourself too much & take periodic rests. Keep your body properly hydrated & do not overhydrate.
STOK MUSEUM
Stok Monastery or Stok Gompa is a Buddhist monastery in Stok, Leh district of Ladakh, 15 kilometres south of Leh. Founded by Lama Lhawang Lotus in the 14th Century, STOK GOMPA has a notable library including all 108 volumes of the Kangyur. A ritual dance-mask festival is held annually. It has volumes that are a part of the Kangyur.
Next to the monastery is the 71 feet (22 m) high seated Gautama Buddha statue and temple, constructed between 2012-2015 and consecrated by Tenzin Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama on 8 August 2016.[2]
Around 2 km from the monastery is Stok Palace, built in 1820 and still the summer home of Ladakhi royalty from the Namgyal dynasty of Ladakh.
There is a museum inside the palace where you can view plenty of unique items, such as seals, weaponry, Buddhist art, thangka paintings and coins.
There are also plenty of treks that you can enjoy in this area while you are here, such as those in the Indus and Markha valleys along with the Stok Kangri mountain range.
HEMIS MONASTERY
Hemis, also spelled Hamis, is a village in the Leh district of Ladakh, India. It is located in the Leh tehsil, 40 km southeast of Leh town.
Situated at an height of 12,000 feet above sea level, the Hemis monastery was established in 1672 AD by king Senge Nampar Gyalva. The village hosts a colorful festival held in July. It is close to the Hemis National Park, an area that is a home to the endangered snow leopard. The national park was created in 1981.
A visit to the Hemis Monastery is one of the highlights of planning holidays in Ladakh. Beautifully adorned, Hemis Monastery is a Tibetan monastery belonging to the Drukpa Lineage. The numerous paintings or Thangkas are carefully preserved here and are displayed during the famous Hemis Festival.
The ancient Hemis monastery is said to be have existed before the 11th century. Naropa, the teacher of the translator Marpa and the pupil of the yogi Tilopa, are regarded as the founding fathers of the Kagyu-lineage of Buddhism, with, Hemis as its main seat. The first incarnation of Stagsang Raspa Nawang Gyatso founded the monastery in 1630 when he was invited to Ladakh by the King Singay Namgyal
What to see at HEMIS
A copper gilded statue of Lord Buddha is nestled within the monastery. Many other stupas that are said to be made of precious metal like gold and silver can also be seen here.
A large statue of Guru Rimpoche is also quite interesting to witness.
The monastery also has a museum within its premises. Numerous historical and religious paintings (Thangkas), carriers, weapons are displayed in the museum.
FESTIVALS AT HEMIS
Hemis Monastery becomes vibrant during the annual Hemis Festival which is celebrated here in early June to honor Guru Padamasambhava. His birth anniversary falls on the 10th day of the fifth month of the Monkey year of the Tibetan calendar. An interesting fact about the day is that it comes once after 12 years. Thus, Hemis celebrates the day with great fervor and enthusiasm.
As per beliefs, celebrating this festival bestows good health and spiritual strength. Many musicians play traditional music. The gala begins with early morning ritual when the tapestry adorned with pearls depicting the image of Guru Padmasambhava is exhibited. This is then admired and worshipped by all. A major highlight of the festival is the Masked Dance which are collectively known as Cham. These performances are part of Tantric tradition and monks could be seen performing Tantric worship.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
A sacred hermitage is located some 3 km way from the monastery. The hermitage is founded by the great Gyalwa Kotsang whose footprints and handprints can be found on the rock within the hermitage.
Another nearby attraction to the monastery is Hemis National Park where snow leopards and rare animals dwell in their natural habitat.
THICKSEY MONASTERY
Perched on a hill at a height of 3600 mtr on the right bank of the Indus River at a distance of 19 kms from Leh on the Manali – Leh Highway, THIKSEY monastery is a major attraction in Ladakh. Thiksey Gompa is one of the most beautiful attractions of Ladakh tourism. The view from the top of the monastery is astounding. A complete 180 deg view of the entire Indus Valley, the Stok range & Leh. You can see the green vegetation near the Indus Valley surrounded by the contrast colors of the vast barren mouintains.
Thiksey Monastery is located in the Thiksey village of Leh district in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. It is the largest gompa in the region and resembles the Patola Palace which is located in Tibet. With an elevation of around 11800 feet, it is also one of the high-altitude gompas in India. Being a 12-storey building, it is a home to several stupas, statues, thangkas, paintings and halls
HISTORY
There is an interesting legend related to the formation of Thiksey Monastery. It is said that Palden Zangpo and Sherab Zangpo, disciples of a Buddhist guru, were performing rituals at a small village-monastery in the northern side of Indus Valley. When they were about to throw the torma offerings in the valley, a crow came out of nowhere and carried the torma with it. Upon searching, the disciples found those torma offerings on a rock, where, later on, they built Thiksey Monastery. Today, it is one of the most prominent monasteries in India and is visited by thousands of tourists every year. Apart from scrutinizing its architectural formation, there is a lot to explore within its boundaries.
WHAT TO SEE AT THIKSEY
Being a 12-storey building and one of the oldest gompas, Thiksey Monastery possesses some timeless beauties. One can study & witness wall paintings, statues and stupas. The architecture of the monastery complex is also something which is worth watching. Beautifully built on a hill slope0with large courtyards, Thiksey Monastery is painted in red, yellow and white. One of the main point of interest is the Maitreya Temple installed to commemorate the visit of the 14th Dalai Lama to this monastery in 1970; it contains a 15 metres (49 ft) high statue of Maitreya, the largest such statue in Ladakh, covering two stories of the building. You can also visit several other places, such as Assembly Hall, Tara Temple and Lamokhang Temple. The name of the monastery, Thiksey, which means “perfect order”, is derived from the perfect order in which the crow placed the cake.
FESTIVALS
Thiksey Gustor ritual is held in the monastery precincts from the 17th to 19th day of the ninth month of the Tibetan calendar (Oct–Nov). As a part of this ritual, sacred dances such as the mask dance or Cham dance are performed. A trade fair held at the base of the monastery is a remarkable feature, in which villagers from all over Ladakh assemble to barter and trade items and socialize. Sand mandalas are made for smaller festivals. The morning prayers at 07:00, with synchronized chanting of sūtras at this monastery, attract many worshippers to observe the services
SHEY PALACE
SHEY MONASTERY & SHEY PALACE
The Shey Monastery or Gompa and the Shey Palace complex are structures located on a hillock in Shey, at an elevation of 11,204 feet, 15 kilometres to the south of Leh in Ladakh,on the Leh-Manali Highway.
HISTORY
Shey was the summer capital of Ladakh in the past. The original palace, now in ruins, was built near the Shey village by Lhachen Palgyigon, the king of Ladakh (then called Maryul), in the 10th century. The Moghul noble Mirza Haidar Dughlat stayed here during his invasion of Ladakh in the 15th century.
The present Shey Palace and Monastery was built in 1655 on the instructions of Deldan Namgyal, in the memory of his late father, Sengge Namgyal, below the first palace.
Shey was the old capital of the upper Ladakh region. When the Dogras of Jammu invaded Ladakh in 1842, the Namgyals abandoned the palace and fled to Stok (they made it their permanent residence) on the opposite side of the Indus River. It is conjectured that the fort found in ruins, not dated, above the present palace at Shey, belonged to this period of invasion. Subsequently, when the political dictates necessitated shifting of the capital to Leh, even then the importance of Shey continued since it was a mandatory requirement of the Namgyal kings to father their heir apparent here
What should you see at SHEY
The monastery is noted for its 39 feet giant copper gilded gold statue of a seated Shakyamuni Buddha. Shakyamuni Buddha is so named since Buddha was the sage (muni) of the Sakya people who resided in the Himalayan foothills and their capital was Kapilavastu. It is said to be the second largest such statue in Ladakh. The giant Buddha as seen in the monastery is on three levels; the lowest level shows his huge feet and “soles pointing upwards” and a mural of Shambunath, the middle floor shows murals of the Buddha in different postures and the upper floor is darkened by the soot of the butter lamps that burn eternally at the altar.
The walls on both the sides of Buddha display the 16 Arhats (saints who achieved Nirvana), 8 on each side. The wall behind the statue has the images of the Buddha’s two chief disciples, Sariputra and Maudgalyayana.
FESTIVALS AT SHEY
One would be fortunate to experience the astounding experience during the festival season at SHEY. SHEY sees two festivals during the year.
Shey Dhoo Lhoo :- A festival marking the beginning of the sowing season is held on the 26th and 27th day of the first month of the Tibetan calendar corresponding to July or August month. The festival is two day celebration marked special rituals conducted by the monks in the main Monastery.
Shey Rupla :- The second festival indicating the harvesting season. As a token of gratitude, farmers offer the fruits of their harvest to the deity. A traditional folk dance called as “Rhupla Dane” is performed by two men in tiger’s costume.
KINDLY KEEP IN MIND
Many Monasteries do not permit photography / videography in the prayer Hall of the Monastery. Please check at the monastery before you click any photographs / take videos.
STAKNA MONASTERY
STAKNA monastery also known as “Tiger’s Nose Monastery” is located at a distance of 25 kms from Leh on the Leh-Manali highway. Perched on a hillock resembling a leaping tiger on the banks of the great Indus River, the STAKNA monastery is a photographers dream as it offers stupendous views of the spectacular Indus Valley. A visit to this monastery gives you an insight of the rich cultural heritage of Buddhism. The Monastery is a house to 30 monks of the Drugpa Order.
HISTORY
It is the only Bhutanese Drukpa Kagyu monastery in Ladakh, headed by the Je Khenpo in Bhutan, whereas the other Drukpa monasteries in Ladakh are of the Gyalwang Drukpa‘s school, based at Hemis. This split in the Drukpa Kagyu lineage occurred in the 17th century when there was a dispute over who was the true reincarnation of the 4th Gyalwang Drukpa.
Stakna Monastery was built by the Bhutanese saint and scholar, Chosje Jamyang Palkar, in the 16th century. A marvelous marble statue of Avalokitesvara, located centrally in the monastery is believed to have been brought over from Assam.
WHAT TO SEE AT STAKNA
STAKNA Monastery is full of attractions. The monastery is a spectacular spot itself. Tourists all over the world visit this place and spend hours enjoying the magnificent sceneries and frame them in their cameras. There is a big assembly hall inside the monastery called Dukhang which is decorated with incredible paintings of Sakyamuni, Tsephakmad and Amchi. The Stakna Monastery also houses several idols which are as elegant as they are enchanting. If you proceed to the extreme right hand side of the courtyard, you will come across a 7ft tall silver gilded chorten consisting of a figure of Lord Buddha with some notes. Parallel to the hall are paintings of various Buddhist gurus including Bodhisattva, Tshong-san-Gompa, and Padma Sambhava. On the top of the monastery, you will come across gorgeous views of the Indus River.
DRUK WHITE LOTUS SCHOOL (RANCHO SCHOOL)
Enroute, Shey monastery on your way back to Leh, you will find the DRUK WHITE LOTUS SCHOOL (Rancho School), which featured in a Aamir Khan starrer film 3 IDIOTS. The school got immense popularity popular from the film & have become a tourist attraction ever since. Aamir Khan’s 3 Idiots. Local guides would take you to around the school. The school has been designed to withstand seismic disturbances.
SHANTI STUPA
SHANTI STUPA
One of the most beautiful and adorable structure in the vicinity of Leh is the magnificent white domed Tibetan structure of SHANTI STUPA dedicated to Buddhism. This beautiful structure stands on a steep hilltop at an height of 11,841 feet. A vast 4 sided gallery atop the SHANTI STUPA serves as a balcony potraying the picturesque expanse of Leh city & the surrounding region. On the rear side of the SHANTI STUPA, you can even see the zigzag road going upwards to Khardung La. It overlooks the vibrant colours of the Leh city, the LEH PALACE & the Changspa village. After dusk, when the STANTI STUPA is illuminated, it looks like a monument from any part of the Leh city, especially during the full moon night. It’s a perfect gateway for those looking for inner peace. Post evening, the Leh city transforms itself into a mesmerizing vision of a starry sky if viewed from the balcony of the SHANTI STUPA.
HISTORY
Shanti Stupa was constructed in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist, Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura. The construction was jointly done by the Japanese and Ladakhi Buddhists to mark the completion of 2500 years of Buddhism and to promote world peace. It is a part of peace pagoda mission, which aims to spread peace through the preaching of Buddha. The entrancing Shanti Stupa has various relics of old Buddhism culture including the huge idol of Buddha placed at this base; the idol was enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama.
- Cafeteria is available in Shanti Stupa
- Don’t forget to carry a camera to click the beautiful views of this place
- No fee for entry or photography
- The best time for visiting Shanti Stupa is during sunrise or sunset. The unbelievable change of colors and light from the movement of the sun can be visualized in this place
- Shanti Stupa is open for visitors between 5:00 a.m. and 9:00 p.m
- Climb the steps slowly. If you feel breathless while climbing, stop for a moment and continue. Don’t forget to carry water with you
- Strictly no smoking. There is a fine for smoking in Shanti Stupa
- Don’t wear shoes while entering the stup
LEH PALACE
LEH PALACE
LEH PALACE, also popularly known as Lhachen Palkhar, is located on the top of TSEMO Hill in the middle of Leh town. It was constructed in the 17th century & was a former palace of the royal family of Leh. Being one of the tallest 9 storey structure in Leh, the LEH PALACE is one of the most popular attraction. From the top floor, you can see the breathtaking views of LEH town, STOK KANGRI range & the barren mountains of LADAKH. The palace which is currently being managed by the Archeological Survey of India is more or less in ruins. The Palace comprises of a monastery featuring the statue of Lord Buddha. The painting in the exhibition halls, the artistic work of the Tibetan thangpa are more than 450 years old. They were painted using colours from powdered gems & precious stones. You will also find a collection of royal jewellery, crowns & royal attires.
HISTORY
The construction of the Leh Palace took place in the year 1553 by Tsewang Namgyal the founder of the Namgyal dynasty of Ladakh. It was completed under the reign of Sengge Namgya, popularly known as the Lion King during the 17th century. While the upper floors of the palace were used as the residence of the royal family members, the lower floors comprised of stables and storerooms.
The royal family was forced to shift their base to the Stok Palace when Leh Palace was invaded by the Dogra forces in the mid of the 19th century. This palace had to face burnt of many wars and that suffered huge damages.
ARCHITECTURE
Leh Palace is a wonderful specimen of the medieval Tibetan style of architecture and shares its resemblance with the popular Potala Palace of Lhasa. The structure is so designed that it remains cold in summers and warm in the winters. The palace is built up of mud, wood, sand and stones, but is slightly smaller in size than Potala.
The carved entrances, spacious rooms and vast corridors haven’t lost their charm, although they are in ruins. The bigger corridors and rooms have now been turned into exhibition falls. The stunning murals on the walls of the palace, depicting the magnificence of its original times are worth seeing.
Another popular landmark of Ladakh is the Victory Tower behind the Leh Palace. This tower was built in the memory of the Ladakhi soldiers who laid their lives in the war against the attacking Balti Kashmiri in the 16th century.
HALL OF FAME
HALL OF FAME
I doubt if there would be any Indian who would had left the HALL OF FAME without a tear in his eye.
The Hall of Fame is a museum constructed by the Indian Army in remembrance of the brave Indian soldiers who laid down their lives defending the motherland in the Indo-Pak wars. Located at a distance of 4 km before the city of Leh on the Kargil – Leh road, the Hall of Fame is a monument of the supreme sacrifices made by our soldiers to safeguard the integrity of this great nation.
WHAT TO SEE AT THE HALL OF FAME
The Hall of Fame museum, is a two storey structure divided into various sections depicting several displays. A section named as OP Vijay Gallery shows the various kinds of weapons used in the Kargil war, along with the various arms and ammunition captured by the Indian Army during the war. Another section displays various kinds of apparel and amenities used by the Indian Army in the Siachen region.
Pictures of Kargil war provides a detailed jaw dropping account of how the war was fought by the Indian Army. There is also a wall named “Lest We Forget” which displays the photographs of those soldiers who laid down their lives defending our nation. It’s a very touching sight to come across and reminds us of the supreme sacrifices made by our soldiers to ensure that our country is free from any foreign aggression. A small documentary on “Operation Vijay” is also shown to the visiting patrons. A letter written by Captain Vijayant Thapar to his parents a few days before he attained martyrdom is also displayed as “The Last Post”. With mixed feelings of pride and sorrow, I am sure that every Indian would be moved to tears before leaving this great temple depicting the valor of the Indian Army. There is also a souvenir shop where you can buy some good Ladakhi mementos.
Opening and Closing time
The Hall of Fame museum remains open from 9 A.M to 1 P.M. and from 2 P.M. to 7 P.M.
Entry Fee
You need to purchase an entry ticket of Rs. 25 per person. For photography inside the museum, you need to pay an additional Rs. 50.
SHAM VALLEY CIRCUIT
KARGIL-MULBEK-LAMAYURU-ALCHI-LIKIR-BASGO-NIMMU-MAGNETIC HILL-GURUDEV PATHER SAHIB- LEH.
GURUDEV PATHER SAHIB
Gurdwara Pathar Sahib, is a beautiful Gurudwara on the Kargil – Leh Road at a height of 12,000 feet above sea level & 25 kms before Leh, constructed in the memory of Guru Nanakji. The Gurdwara was built in 1517 to commemorate the visit of Guru Nanak Dev in the Ladakh region.
During the course of his spiritual journey, Guru Nanak travelled to many distant places like Tibet. Guru Nanak is well respected by Tibetan Buddhists who consider him a saint; The Dalai Lama, spiritual leader of Buddhists in Tibet, has confirmed this in his discussions with some Sikh leaders saying that Tibetans revere Guru Nanak as a Buddhist saint under the name of Guru Gompka Maharaj.
RECENT PAST
In the late 1970s, during the construction of the Leh-Nimu road, a large boulder surfaced in the middle of the road. The boulder was covered with Buddhist prayer flags that are often found, strung by Buddhist Lamas, along mountain ridges and peaks high in the Himalayas to bless the surrounding countryside.
A Bulldozer was deployed to push the huge stone to the side, but it refused to move. Despite, pushing the machine to its limits, the boulder refused to move an inch. That night the driver had a dream in which a voice told him not to move the stone.
Although he narrated the dream to one of the army officers, it was ignored. When all the efforts failed, it was decided to blow the boulder with a dynamite the next day. That night the army officer also had a similar dream telling him not to remove the stone. The next morning, several Lamas and other Ladhakhi people visited him to tell the story of a Holy Saint they called Nanak Lama and the defiant boulder.
They learned about the pathar, which was a source of so much trouble for the army. The boulder was a ‘mould’ with a negative impression, of their revered Lama Nanak that contained a hollow imprint of his shoulders, head and backside.
He was told that during the period of 1515-18 when Guru Nanak was returning to Punjab through Srinagar, after travelling to Sikkim, Nepal and Tibet, he had rested at this place. It is believed that Guru Nanak Dev reached Leh via Sikkim, Nepal, Tibet and Yarkhand.
HISTORY
According to a local legend, once a wicked demon lived in the area where the gurdwara is now situated. He frightened the people & was known to kill & eat the local folk. When the people prayed to the Almighty for help, it is said that Guru Nanak heard their woes and came to their aid. He settled down on the bank of the river below the hill where the cruel demon lived. The Guru blessed the people with sermons and became popular in the area. The locals called him Nanak Lama. Seeing this the demon flew in a fit of rage and decided to kill Guru Nanak Dev.
One morning with the intention of killing the Guru who was meditating, the demon pushed a large pathar (boulder), down from the hilltop. The boulder gained speed as it rumbled down the hillside. However, when it touched the Guru’s body, it softened like warm wax and came to a halt against Guru Nanak’s back. The Guru kept on meditating unhurt and undisturbed. The demon was taken aback to see the Guru deep in meditation. In a fit of anger, he tried to push the boulder with his right foot, but as the pathar still had the softness of warm wax, his foot got embedded in it. Pulling his foot from the boulder the demon was dumfounded to see the impression his foot had just left in the stone.
The demon on realizing his powerlessness, fell at the feet of Guru Nanak Dev and begged for forgiveness. Guru Sahib advised him to get rid of his wicked ways and asked him to lead a life of a noble person. This changed the life of the demon, who gave up evil deeds and started serving the people. It is said that since the visit of Guru Sahib (in 1517) to the building of the roadway in 1965, the local Lamas had held the pathar sacred and offered prayers to it as, no doubt, they do to this day.
Today the site and the Gurdwara that now covers the boulder is revered by both the local Lamas and Sikh sangat. Currently the Army is looking after the Gurdwara.
MAGNETIC HILL
Out of the many tourist attractions in Ladakh, featuring exquisite contrast colors of the mountains, skies & the aqua blue water shades, the Magnetic Hill is a major tourist attraction. Located at a height of 14,000 feet on the Kargil-Leh highway and about 27 kms before Leh, the MAGNETIC HILL is indeed a mysterious places which defies the law of gravity.
The phenomenon can be witness on a small stretch of road, say about 5-6 metres demarcated in a yellow box, where you can park your 2 wheeler / 4 wheelers & experience the mysterious force which pulls your vehicle uphill. Switch off your engine, keep your vehicle in neutral and you will experience the vehicle moving against the direction of the slope. However, if you park your vehicle outside the designated area, no such motion is seen.
SUPPORTING THEORIES
MAGNETIC FORCE
It is said that the Magnetic Hill defies the law of gravity. Various theories & Myths about this unique phenomenon are widely heard. However, the most prominent & widely accepted theory is that there is a Magnetic force emanating from the Magnetic Hill which pulls the vehicles uphill. It is also mentioned that Aircrafts flying above that regions have experienced jerks and pilots are advised to steer clear of the radius of the Magnetic Hill.
LOCAL BELIEF
The local folk of Ladakh share a different theory of the Magnetic Hill. They believe that it is a road which pulls the good deserving souls to heaven. Those who are not worthy are not able to make it there.
TRUTH OR JUST AN ILLUSION
Personally, I had experienced it. To me it appears more of an illusion deceiving the mind. I parked my vehicles in the demarked area & the vehicle started moving backwards, when the slope appeared on the front side. However, the slope is not actually a prominent slope to confirm the magnetic nature of the phenomenon. Once cannot ignore the possibility of an optic illusion. The slope could be a downhill slope which appears to be an uphill slope due to the obstructed horizon.
Since the human eye judges the slope with reference to the horizon, the obstructed horizon adds to the illusion. The human mind is tricked into believing that the car is moving on an uphill slope against the gravity. Of course, this phenomenon does not explain the experiences of the aircrafts flying above this region.
HOW TO REACH MAGNETIC HILL
By Air
The nearest Airport is Leh Airport (25 kms), which is well connected to the major cities in India.
By Train
Jammu is the nearest convenient railway station which is about 677 kms.
By Road
All buses travelling on the Leh-Srinagar Highway to any destination like Alchi, Likir, Lamayuru, Kargil etc can drop you at Magnetic Hill. If you are travelling by road to LEH on the Srinagar Leh Highway, you can also pay a visit to this place enroute. It is recommended to start from Kargil early so as to cover the below points in detail
KARGIL – MULBEK – LAMAYURU – ALCHI – LIKIR – NIMMU – MAGNETIC HILL – PATHER SAHIB- LEH.
Magnetic Hills is a part of SHAM VALLEY sight seeing & can be connected by a day long tour by TAXI from Leh to Sham Valley covering the following region.
LEH-GURUDWARA PATHER SAHIB-MAGNETIC HILL- NIMMU SANGAM – BASGO PLAINS – LIKIR MONASTERY – ALCHI MONASTERY.
Refer to the Rate Chart for SHAM VALLEY sightseeing.
NIMOO SANGAM
Just 35 kms before Leh near Nimu village on the Kargil-Leh Highway is the confluence of the two great rivers. The Indus & the Zanskar River Sangam can be seen from the Highway and is a jaw dropping sight to see the aqua blue colours of the Indus rivers merging into the Zanskar river in its sedimentary state. This place is called as Nimu Sangam OR Santam Point OR the Sangam Valley. In this article, I will take you through a brief tour on the significance of this Sangam Point which is a part of the SHAM VALLEY circuit.
INDUS RIVER
The Indus River (also called as the Sindhu river) is one of the longest river in Asia. The Indus river was a lifeline of the great Indus Valley civilization in the 3300 B.C. Ancient cities of Harappa & Mohenjo-Daro were the most adorable urban planned cities which flourished during the days of Indus Valley civilization.
The origin of the Indus river is at the confluence of the Sengge Zangbo river and Gar Tsangpo river in Tibet. It flows in India through the Ladakh region where the Shyok river merges into it followed by the Zanskar River. It then continues its journey to Pakistan & then into the Arabian Sea.
ZANSKAR RIVER
The Zanskar River is a tributary of the Indus and is said to have originated from two main branches. The Doda river which has its source near the Pensi-la (14,400 ft) mountain-pass and flows south-eastwards along the main Zanskar valley leading towards Padum, the capital of Zanskar. The second branch is formed by two main tributaries known as Kargyag river, with its source near the Shingo La (16,703 ft), and Tsarap river, with its source near the Baralacha-La. These two rivers unite below the village of Purne to form the Lungnak river (also known as the Lingti or Tsarap). The Lungnak river then flows north-westwards along a narrow gorge towards Zanskar’s central valley (known locally as gzhung khor), where it unites with the Doda river to form the main Zanskar river. This river then takes a north-eastern course through the Zanskar Gorge until it joins the Indus near “Nimmu” in Ladakh.
CHADAR TREK
A road from the Leh-Kargil Highway just before the Nimu Sangam takes you to the banks of river where you can find lots of water sports like rafting, boating etc. The road continues further for 30 kms upto Chilling which is the starting point of the CHADAR TREK.
In the winter season, when the temperature drops to sub zero degrees, the Zanskar river freezes and forms a sheet of ice, popularly called as a CHADAR (which means a white sheet). The ice solidifies making it possible to walk over it. The end of January & February months sees a lot of adventure enthusiasts undertaking this wonderous trek which is a once in a lifetime experience. Porter, mules, food provisions, guides take the entire provisions for the coming 12-15 days trek. The trek passes through narrow Gorges, river banks upto Padum, the capital of Zanskar. Enroute, stays are arranged in caves, camps & food is cooked by these porters for everyone. During winters, once the high passes like PENZI LA freezes, the CHADAR route is the only connectivity to PADUM village in the Zanskar Valley.
During summer season, river rafting from Chilling to Nimu is very popular among tourists.
As the seasons change, the colors of the meeting rivers keep on changing. Not only the colors, but the flow of water also changes with the seasons. During the months of June to August, the water flow increases flooding the banks of the rivers. The Indus river appears dark Green while the Zanskar river is muddy in color in the month of June – July.
How to reach NIMMU
By Air
The nearest Airport is Leh Airport (35 kms), which is well connected to the major cities in India.
By Train
Jammu is the nearest convenient railway station which is about 677 kms.
By Road
All buses travelling on the Leh-Srinagar Highway to any destination like Alchi, Likir, Lamayuru, Kargil etc can drop you at the Sangam Point. If you are travelling by road to LEH on the Srinagar Leh Highway, you can halt your vehicle enroute. It is recommended to start from Kargil early so as to cover the below points in detail.
NOTE:– A drive extending to Chilling 30 kms from NIMMU is recommended if you have time. Quite a few stretches on the road as very peaceful & quite.
KARGIL – MULBEK – LAMAYURU – ALCHI – LIKIR – NIMMU – MAGNETIC HILL – PATHER SAHIB- LEH.
Nimmu Sangam is a part of SHAM VALLEY sight seeing & can be connected by a day long tour by TAXI from Leh to Sham Valley covering the following region.
LEH-GURUDWARA PATHER SAHIB-MAGNETIC HILL- NIMMU SANGAM- BASGO PLAINS – LIKIR MONASTERY – ALCHI MONASTERY-LEH.
Refer to the Rate Chart for SHAM VALLEY sightseeing.
BASGO PLAINS
Situated at a distance of 40 kms from Leh, a long & straight stretch of land called as BASGO PLAINS is quite a popular place enroute Leh. You can take some mementos at different points on the plain stretch. Many advertisements display photographs of BASGO plains.
The BASGO Palace & monastery is situated on top of the hill towering over the ruins of the ancient town and is noted for its Buddha statue and murals. The complex comprises the Chamchung, Chamba Lakhang, and Serzang temples, dedicated to the Maitreya Buddha
LIKIR MONASTERY
Some of the most prominent & exquisite locations in Ladakh are occupied by ancient monasteries. These monasteries occupy prime locations & offers stupendous vistas for the tourists. The Ladakh region is full of big & small monasteries with a different history, grandeur and most importantly are quite distinctive. LIKIR MONASTERY is one amongst those. If you are approaching from Kargil to Leh, please make sure you keep your eyes wide open for the small hairpin bend on the left side (I missed it twice on the same day & had to backtrack from BASGO). LIKIR MONASTERY is further 9.5 kms from the hairpin bend North of the Srinagar – Leh Highway. The 23 mtr high Golden colored statue of Lord Buddha majestically placed in Monastery is the main attraction.
Located on a picturesque hill at a height of 3700 mtr, 52 kms from Leh (43 kms straight F from Leh on the Leh – Kargil Highway then a detour of 9.5 kms on the right hairpin bend off the Highway) is the LIKIR monastery. The road is good and as you proceed, you will enter a narrow valley. As you approach near, you can see the Monastery & the villages in the midst of the barren hills & the contract green vegetation.
HISTORY
The LIKIR MONASTERY belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism and was established in 1065 by Lama Duwang Chosje, under the command of the fifth king of Ladakh, Lhachen Gyalpo.
Although Likir is relatively isolated, it was once on a major trade route which travelled via Tingmosgang, Hemis and Likir to Leh. The name Likir means “The Naga – Encircled”, representing the bodies of the two great serpent spirits, the Naga-rajas, Nanda and Taksako. The monastery currently has approximately 120 Buddhist monks and a school, in which almost thirty students study.[3] The Central Institute of Buddhist Studies runs it and teaches in three languages, Hindi, Sanskrit and English.
ARCHITECHTURE
The monastery has two assembly halls, known as Dukhangs and the older one is located on the right of the central courtyard with six rows of seats for the lamas and a throne for the Head Lama of Likir.[7] The Dukhangs contain statues of Bodhisattva, Amitabha, three large statues of Sakyamuni, Maitreya and Tsong Khapa, founder of the yellow-hat sect.
FESTIVALS
Dos-mo-che, the annual festival of the monastery, is held from the 27th to 29th of the 12th Tibetan month. This happens to be somewhere in the month of February.
How to reach LIKIR
By Air
The nearest Airport is Leh Airport (62 kms), which is well connected to the major cities in India.
By Train
Jammu is the nearest convenient railway station which is about 677 kms.
By Road
All buses travelling on the Leh-Srinagar Highway to any destination like Alchi, Lamayuru, Kargil etc can drop you at the Sangam Point. If you are travelling by road to LEH on the Srinagar Leh Highway, you can halt your vehicle enroute. It is recommended to start from Kargil early so as to cover the below points in detail.
KARGIL – MULBEK – LAMAYURU – ALCHI – LIKIR – NIMMU – MAGNETIC HILL – PATHER SAHIB- LEH.
LIKIR GOMPA is a part of SHAM VALLEY sight seeing & can be connected by a day long tour by TAXI from Leh to Sham Valley covering the following region.
LEH-GURUDWARA PATHER SAHIB-MAGNETIC HILL- NIMMU SANGAM- BASGO PLAINS – LIKIR MONASTERY – ALCHI MONASTERY – LEH.
Refer to the Rate Chart for SHAM VALLEY sightseeing.
ALCHI MONASTERY
LADAKH is a land full of monasteries, each having its own history originating hundreds of years ago. ALCHI MONASTERY in the LADAKH region is one such unique monastery having its history way back in the 10th Century. Unlike other monasteries, ALCHI monastery is remarkably different in its architecture & structure. ALCHI village is situated on the south bank of the INDUS river at a height of 10,200 feet and at a distance of about 67 kms from Leh. After 60 odd kms from Leh is SASPOL bridge from where you can take a left for ALCHI village. As you enter the village, you will find shops on either sides selling souvenirs of Ladakhi origin.
ALCHI village houses some ancient monuments dating centuries ago. ALCHI MONASTERY is one of those having a unique architecture which differentiates it from the other monasteries in the Ladakh region. The monastery complex was built, according to local tradition, by the great translator Guru Rinchen Zangpo between 958 and 1055. Contradictory to this, inscriptions in the preserved monuments ascribe it to a Tibetan noble called Kal-dan Shes-rab later in the 11th century
The Assembly Hall (DUKHANG) and the three storied Main Temple (SUMTSEG) are built in Kashmiri style. The third Temple (Manjushri – temple and chortens). Lakhang Soma and Lotsabha Lakhang are two major temples of the ALCHI MONASTERY. These unique architectures are adorned with stunning artistically carved painting which are some of the oldest collections of Ladakh. The exquisite wall paintings reflect the spiritual and artistic details of the era of the Hindu & Buddhist Kings in Himachal Pradesh & Kashmir.
The ALCHI MONASTERY complex also has huge statues of the Buddha and elaborate wood carvings and art-work resembling architecture of the baroque style.
How to reach ALCHI
By Air
The nearest Airport is Leh Airport (67 kms), which is well connected to the major cities in India.
By Train
Jammu is the nearest convenient railway station which is about 677 kms.
By Road
All buses travelling on the Leh-Srinagar Highway to any destination like Alchi, Lamayuru, Kargil etc can drop you at the Sangam Point. If you are travelling by road to LEH on the Srinagar Leh Highway, you can halt your vehicle enroute. It is recommended to start from Kargil early so as to cover the below points in detail.
KARGIL – MULBEK – LAMAYURU – ALCHI – LIKIR – NIMMU – MAGNETIC HILL – PATHER SAHIB- LEH.
ALCHI MONASTERY is a part of SHAM VALLEY sight seeing & can be connected by a day long tour by TAXI from Leh to Sham Valley covering the following region.
LEH-GURUDWARA PATHER SAHIB-MAGNETIC HILL- NIMMU SANGAM- BASGO PLAINS – LIKIR MONASTERY – ALCHI MONASTERY.
Refer to the Rate Chart for SHAM VALLEY sightseeing.
BEST TIME TO VISIT ALCHI
By road, both the access routes (Srinager – Leh Highway & the Manali – Leh Highway) to LADAKH remain closed during November to May due to heavy snowfall. The only time slot available is from May to September / October.
You can travel by Air upto Leh & then take a taxi from Leh during the winter season for Alchi.
BEST PLACE TO STAY
Alchi Monastery is a unique place & many people travelling from Kargil to Leh break their journey at Alchi for a night halt. There are quite a few guest houses & hotels in the range of Rs.500/- to Rs.2000/-
MULBEKH MONASTERY
Mulbekh Monastery houses two Gompas. They are called as the SERDUNG gompa & the RGALDAN-SE GOMPA of the DRUKPA & GELUGPA sect respectively. The monastery is said to have been built around 800 years back by the students of the Tibetan scholar, Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo.
The double gompas are located at the very top of a crag almost 656 feet above the road. It can be reached by a steep winding footpath from behind. About 45 kms from Kargil on the Kargil-Leh road, the main attraction of this Gompa is the 30 feet high Maitreya Buddha statue skilfully crafted out on a stone slab.
In the near vicinity are some ancient inscriptions written in Kharoshti script. There was a custom of tearing out the heart of a living goat in front of an altar. There is a command inscribed by the King Lde who ruled the Westerns Ladakh c.1400 CE to the local people to discontinue the cruel sacrifice. However, the people of Mulbekh found it burdensome to follow the command. On the same rock there is an inscription saying that the order was too hard to be followed. The locals considered it offensive to deprive the local deity from its customary offerings.
LAMAYURU MONASTERY
Lamayuru or the Yuru Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in the Lamyuru, region of the Leh district of J & K, India. It is situated on the Srinagar-Leh Highway, 104 kms from Kargil towards Leh and 15 kms east of Fotu La at a height of 11,520 feet above level. The Lamayuru monastery is a must visit place enroute Leh. The magnificent structure of LAMAYURU majestically hovers prominently on the highway amidst the surrounding moonland.
HISTORY of LAMAYURU
Lamayuru is the main seat of the Drikung Kagyu School of Buddhism and one of the biggest and the oldest gompas in Ladakh, with a population of around 150 resident monks. It has, in the past, housed up to 400 monks, many of which are now based in gompas in surrounding villages. The history of the Lamayuru monastery goes back to the 11th century. A Buddhist monk, Arhat Madhyantika predicted that a monastery would be founded at Lamayuru, which was once a lake. Subsequently, Mahasiddha Naropa who had meditated at a nearby cave caused the lake to somehow dry up & thus the Lamayuru monastery was founded.
Lamayuru is also called as the moonland of Ladakh. It is said that the drying of the lake has resulted in the formation of a terrain resembling the soil on the moon. These unique soil formations carved out in the vicinity of the Lamayuru monastery’s surrounding landscape has imparted fame to the monastery. Thousands of tourists across the globe flock to Lamayuru to witness & photograph this moonland.
The monastery complex consisted originally of five buildings. Presently, it has the main central building and the remains of the four corner buildings. The monastery complex houses some of the most beautiful stone carvings of prayers.
In the 16th century, Tashi Namgyal, the King of Ladakh introduced a law forbidding any arrest in the near vicinity of the Lamayuru Monastery. Ever since, the monastery is also called as Tharpa Ling which means ”The land of Freedom”. The law was followed religiously by the Ladakhi kings and the other Balti rulers of Kashmir.
FESTIVALS at LAMAYURU
Two annual masked dance festivals known as Yuru Kabgyat are hosted by the Lamayuru monastery in the second & the fifth months of the Tibetan Lunar Calendar. Monks from the neighbouring gompas gather together to offer prayer during this time
BEST TIME to TRAVEL to LAMAYURU
Like any Ladakhi destination, Lamayuru would also remain accessible by road from Srinagar & Leh between April / May to October without any hassles. However, this route gets disconnected at high passes between November to April. During this period, the only means of reaching Lamayuru is to fly to Leh & then hire a taxi to Lamayuru (120 kms).
HOW TO REACH LAMAYURU
By Air
The nearest airport connected is the Leh International Airport. You can hire a taxi to cover the 120 kms distance from Leh to Lamayuru. Ideally, those travelling by Air can cover Lamayuru during a day long SHAM VALLEY tour. This should be done on the third day after your arrival at Leh. Your day of arrival & the next day should be spent taking rest and doing the local monastery tours with minimum exertion to facilitate acclimatization.
By Rail
The nearest railhead is Jammu Tawi which is about 660 kms from Lamayuru. The remaining distance can be covered by road by hiring a taxi / Bus / self drive your own vehicle. Jammu is well connected to major cities of India by railways. Bikers either book their bikes till Jammu OR Chandigarh by rail. Travel thereafter takes about 2-3 days from Jammu to Lamayuru with nighthalts at Srinagar & Kargil. Being a national highway, the entire road stretch is properly tarred and is in excellent condition.
By Road
Lamayuru is directly connected by national highways to major cities of India. In fact, road travel is the only direct mode of transport without any shunting. Buses & Taxis ply services from Kargil & Leh to Lamayuru.
Usually, people travelling to Leh by road cover LAMAYURU monastery enroute Leh. Tourists who hire taxis or drive their own vehicles cover the entire SHAM VALLEY circuit enroute while travelling from Kargil to Leh. One has to start early from KARGIL to cover all the points.
NUBRA VALLEY
LADAKH region offers a diverse platter of enchanting places. High Mountain Passes, Adventurous roads, Crystal clear aqua Blue rivers, Barren Mountains, Mystic Valleys, Sparking Sand dunes & a lot more. NUBRA VALLEY in the Ladakh region, situated at an average height of 10,000 feet above sea level & 114 kms from Leh is one such MUST visit mesmerizing destination. The peace and tranquility of this region is astounding & you can feel that Life comes to a standstill. In Tibetan language, the NUBRA valley is also called as “LDUMRA” (means Valley of Flowers). Its inhabited areas form a tri-armed valley cut by the Nubra and Shyok rivers. Diskit, is the headquarters of Nubra, is about 114 km north from Leh, the capital of Ladakh.
The Shyok River meets the Nubra or Siachan River to form a large valley that separates the Ladakh and Karakoram Ranges. The Shyok river is a tributary of the Indus river. The access route to this valley is to travel over the Khardung La pass from Leh town.
The route passes through the KHARDUNG LA pass (39 kms from Leh) which is one of the most sought attraction for its so called claim of being the “Highest Motorable Road in the World” at an height of 18,380 feet. You can find an army camp housing a souvenir shop at the highest point & Sign boards to click photographs. The Khardungla Top has two stretches of 15 kms each on either sides. Just 25 kms after Leh, you reach at a spot called as “SOUTH PULLU”, where tourists are required to register themselves & ascend the next 15 kms to the KHARDUNGLA top. From the top, begins the descend of another 15 kms to the army base called as NORTH PULLU. This stretch of 30 kms is equally divided on both sides of the KHARDUNGLA top and is more of an offroad ride with some snow covered sections of the top. However, the slope is gradual and mostly doable on any vehicle. During May end OR early June, there would be snow & slush on the roads at the top. One has to be very careful while driving. As you descend, 19 kms further to North Pullu is the beautiful village of KHARDUNG. KHALSAR is further 24 kms from KHARDUNG & a point where the road branches. The left side of the road goes to
SECTION 1
LEH – 39 kms – KHARDUNGLA – 33 kms – KHARDUNG – 24 kms – KHALSAR – 21 kms -DISKIT – 7 kms – HUNDER – 19 kms – THOISE – 64 kms – TURTUK :- TOTAL 207 kms
SECTION 2
LEH – 39 kms – KHARDUNGLA – 33 kms – KHARDUNG – 24 kms – KHALSAR – 24 kms – SUMUR – 23 kms – PANAMIK – 35 kms – YARMA GOMPA – 5 kms – WARSHI :-TOTAL 183 kms
KHALSAR is the point at which the NUBRA valley is bisected into two valleys by a “Y” intersection. One valley continues along the SHYOK river till TURTUK, while the other side continues along with the NUBRA or SIACHEN river passing through SUMUR, PANAMIK till WARSHI villages. Till a few years ago, the NUBRA VALLEY was limited to Diskit & Hunder on one side & SUMUR, PANANAMIK on the other side of the “Y” intersection. Offlate, this has been extended till TURTUK on the DISKIT side & upto WARSHI on the PANAMIK side. A visit beyond WARSHI upto the SIACHEN base camp still remains limited to the Indian Army.
DO I REQUIRE INNER LINE PERMITS FOR NUBRA VALLEY
Since 1st April 2017 Indian citizens are also required to get an Inner Line Permit to visit the valley. Foreign nationals are required to get a Protected area permit to visit the Nubra Valley (Refer to the ILP section for details to apply)
WHERE DO I STAY IN THE NUBRA VALLEY
Well, I am certainly not of the opinion to do any hotel pre-booking, since Hotel tariffs are negotiable & would depend on demand / supply conditions. If you try to pre-book them, there is very less scope for negotiations.
However, if you are travelling with a larger sized family OR a group, it may be a little inconvenient to keep others stranded till you identify the right place. It also depends on the kind of members travelling with you. In case you are travelling with very small children (of course below 4 years, I would not recommend) & aged parents, then certainly it may be discreet to pre-book at least the Ist day of the stay. Secondly, if you are very particular about the facilities & the quality of the accommodation, stay etc. & budget is not a constraint, then you should pre-book it.
However, the best option would be to start EARLY & reach EARLY (say by 03:00 pm – 04:00 pm) to your destination & directly approach the Hotels / Guest Houses / Homestays. If you reach early, the Hotel staff would be more inclined to close the deal of unsold rooms. If you arrive late, they would sense your urgency & may not be as responsive to your bargaining, especially if you are with your family. They can very well sense that a person with a family will not hip hop at hotels. In an online / direct pre-booking, you may not be assured of a specific room. Mostly, those who have pre-booked take the privilege to reach as per their convenience & end up with left over rooms (of course from the same category). The good rooms (i.e. with good views, location) are sold to those who reach directly & negotiate.
Of course, it’s not a rocket science which I am telling you, but it’s a psychology which I have experienced during my travels.
How to reach NUBRA VALLEY.
By Air
The nearest Airport is Leh Airport (121 kms), which is well connected to the major cities in India.
By Train
Jammu is the nearest convenient railway station which is about 677 kms.
By Road
There are bus service from Leh to various parts in the Nubra Valley. Alhtough, frequency is not on a daily basis, there is an alternate day service to the main locations in the Nubra valley. Please refer to the Bus Services Article
Share Taxis from Leh.
You can get share taxis from the Polo Ground to Nubra Valley. While getting a Share taxi for DISKIT & HUNDER may be easy due to the constant flow of tourists, locations like TURTUK, SUMUR & PANAMIK would be bit difficult. Tourist should in such case opt for DISKIT / HUNDER or KHALSAR (for SUMUR & PANAMIK). From these locations, you can get further options for travel to Turturk, Sumur, Panamik & Warshi villages.
Direct Taxi
Of course, this option is available and it is recommended that you engage the taxi for the complete Nubra circuit & if possible link it to other destinations like Pangong, Hanle, Tsomoriri back to Leh / Manali.
Refer to the Rate Chart for NUBRA / Complete Circuit.
Self Drive
Feel free as a bird to explore the entire Ladakh on a Self Drive. No restrictions on your schedules, stop wherever you like. Of course, this is the best & the most economical option to drive down with your own car. Have the luxury of extending your stay at any place without getting bothered with the travel schedules. But please ensure that you are not hiring any self driven vehicles, since they would not be allowed beyond Leh. Self driving on Ladakh terrain is indeed not going to be easy. See my article on Self Drive.
BEST TIME TO VISIT NUBRA VALLEY.
By road, both the access routes to Leh (Srinager – Leh Highway & the Manali – Leh Highway) remain closed during November to May due to heavy snowfall. The only time slot available is from May to September / October.
GEOGRAPHY
Various tourist destinations in the Nubra Valley like Diskit, Hunder, Turtuk, Sumur, Panamik & Warshi are located within a distance ranging from 121 kms to 200 kms from Leh at an average altitude of 10,000 feet about sea level
WEATHER CONDITIONS
Summer temperature ranges from 10-25 degree Celsius, and winters are between minus 5 to 18 degrees.
WHAT TO SEE IN NUBRA
DISKIT
DISKIT MONASTERY
Diskit is a village and the headquarters of NUBRA subdivision of Leh and is located at a distance of 121 kms from Leh. Situated on the banks of the Shyok River, Diskit has many homestays and guest house options that are open throughout the year. The main market is a small place with a few tiny restaurants
The DISKIT MONASTERY offers a stupendous view of the entire NUBRA valley. You can feel the might of the gigantic towering mountains opposite to the Monastery forming the “Y” intersection of the NUBRA valley. Just sit outside the Monastery looking at the vast valleys and you will feel that time has stopped. You can see the 32 feet Buddha Statue below the monastery. Far off on the other side of the “Y” intersection, you can also see the SUMUR SAMSTANLING Monastery.. See the sparkling sand dunes of HUNDER under the contrast colors of the green vegetation along the SHYOK river and the backdrop of the barren mountains. It you ask me, in the entire LADAKH region, there is no place like the DISKIT monastery. Just before DISKIT, a small left turn takes you to DISKIT MONASTERY. A must visit once in a life time experience.
HISTORY
It belongs to the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism. It was founded by Changzem Tserab Zangpo, a disciple of Tsong Khapa, founder of Gelugpa, in the 14th century. It is a sub-gompa of the Thiksey gompa.
The monastery has statue of Cho Rinpoche (Crowned Buddha) in the prayer hall, a huge drum and several images of fierce guardian deities.
During the period 1643-1716 AD., the Mongol Gushri Khan seized both Mongolia and Tibet and became the king of united Mongolia and Tibet. Soon, the Mongol tribes and a powerful army of Tibetan reach Ladakh. The Mongols went on rampant raiding expeditions all over the Ladakh region during the reigns of King Delek Namgail. At that point of time, a group of Mongol army raided the Nubra Valley. Apparently, one of the Mongol generals, entered the shirne of Disket Monastary. Presenting himself in front of the Protector statues, he challenged the deities to protect the region. He stabbed the wooden floor with his dagger. When he got up, he stumbled as his clothes were struck under the dagger in the floor. He was so stunned & awestruck with what had happened suddenly, that presuming it to be a wrath of the deity, he fell down and dropped dead. His army left his body in the monastery before leaving. The monks of the monastery considered it as very auspicious and kept his head and right hand in the shrine room. One can still see his mummified head and right hand in shrine room of Diskit monastery.
FESTIVALS
A popular festival known as Dosmoche or the “Festival of the Scapegoat” is held in the precincts of the monastery in February during the winter season, which is largely attended by people from villages of the Nubra Valley. There is a custom of holding sacred dances during the festival of Gustor.
STAY OPTIONS AT DISKIT
Some of the known & verified options of stays are listed below. Personally, I have not stayed in all of these hotels. But I have studied views on various online booking websites.
- HOTEL STEN DEL
- Address :- Diskit, 194401
- Tel. :- +91-94193 48223
- Facilities :- Attached bath, Geyser, Elevator, TV, Free Wi-Fi, Intercom, Parking facility Multi cuisine Restaurant, housekeeping, Laundry & room service.
- HOTEL MAITREYA NUBRA
- Address :- Near Sub District Hospital Nubra Diskit, Diskit 194401 India
- Facilities :- Attached bath, Geyser, Flat ScreenTV, Fridge, Free Wi-Fi, Intercom, Parking facility, Restaurant & room service.
- HOTEL GRAND NUBRA
- Address :- Tsostoth Deskit Nubra Ladakh
- Tel :- +91-94695 61666
- Facilities :- Attached bath, Geyser, TV, Free Wi-Fi, Intercom, Parking facility, Multi cuisine Restaurant & room service.
- HOTEL OLTHANG
- Address :- Diskit, Jammuand Kashmir 194401
- Tel :- 01980 220 025
- Facilities :- 21 rooms with Attached bath, Geyser, Elevator, TV, Free Wi-Fi, Intercom, Parking facility Restaurant, Health Club, Gym, Spa & room service.
- SPANGLA GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Diskit, Nubra Valley, Ladakh, Jammu and kashmir, India
- Facilities :- 12 rooms with attached bath, Geyser, TV, Intercom, Parking facility. Power back up, Housekeeping, Laundry & room service.
- SAND DUNE GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Diskit, Nubra, Nubra, near Main Bazar, Ladakh 194401
- Facilities :- Rooms with attached bath, Geyser, TV, Intercom, Parking facility. Power back up, Housekeeping & room service.
HUNDER
Literal meaning of Hunder is hun-first, der to-establish, as the name goes this village was the first to establish in Nubra valley. Hunder village is the largest, most beautiful and a charming village. Hunder was the capital of Nubra valley when this valley was under the King Bagaram. His ruined palace and his private shrine can be still seen and worth visiting. He was famous for constructing skalzang mani wall on which there is a stone engraving of thousands of Buddha s names which is unique in entire Ladakh and Tibet too.
Located just about 7 kms further to DISKIT is this small & beautiful town of HUNDER, which has a sizeable number of Homestays & Guest Houses. There is also an Army camp of the BRO. Between Hundar and Diskit lie the sand dunes. HUNDER is famous for its sparkling sand dunes & the double humped Bactrian Camels. The Hunder Monastery is also located here.
The main attraction of HUNDER is of course a Camel Ride on the double humped Bacterian Camels. You can enjoy a 15 min / 30 min ride on the Camel back & experience the heat of a desert during the day in an otherwise cold place like HUNDER.
There are several ruined buildings, including the ruins of the King’s palace & the Langchen Khar (“Elephant Palace”). There is a fort at the top of the hill, called Gula. Hundar also has two Buddhist temples: the white temple (Lhakhang Karpo) and the red temple (Lhakhang Marpo).
STAY OPTIONS AT HUNDER
- HOTEL SNOW LEOPARD
- Address :- HUNDER, NUBRA VALLEY-LADAKH -194401
- tEl. :- +91-1980221097 / +91-7889602563 / +91-9469176759
- E-MAIL :- hotelsnowleopardhunder@gmail.com.
- Website :- www.snowleopardhotel.com
- Facilities .:- 18 rooms with attached baths, running hot water, power backup, parking & room service.
- HABIB GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Hunder Road,Hunder Nubra – Ladakh – 194101.
- Tel :- Mobile: (+91) 982-050-1211 / (+91) 932-050-1211 / (+91) 887-900-1171.
- Email : info@habibguesthouse.com. Website: www.habibguesthouse.com
- Facilities :- Well furnished 9 rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, TV area, multi cuisine restaurant, power back up, bonfire, doctor on call, laundry & room service
- HOTEL LHASTHANG
- Address :- Hunder, Nubra Valley. Leh, J & K – 194401
- Contact :- Mr.Mohit Sital.
- Tel :- (+91) 982-050-1211. Office : (+91) 887-900-1171
- Email : info@hotellhasthangnubra.com.
- Website : www.hotellhasthangnubra.com
- Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, TV area, multi cuisine restaurant, power back up, bonfire, doctor on call, laundry & room service.
- HUNDER RESIDENCY
- Address :- Nubra Valley, Youmbok House, Hunder, Leh, J & K 194401
- Tel. :- 01980 221064, 9469190203, 9717092962, 6006150840
- Email :- hunderresidency@gmail.com
- Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, LED TV, multi cuisine restaurant, power back up, bonfire, doctor on call, laundry & room service.
- YOURDUM GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Hunder Nubra Valley, Leh Ladakh – 194401
- Tel :- +91 982-050-1211 / +91 887-900-1171
- Email : info@yourdumguesthouse.com .
- Website : www.yourdumguesthouse.com
- Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, TV area, multi cuisine restaurant, power back up, bonfire, doctor on call, laundry & room service.
- SHA CHO GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Hunder Road,Hunder – 194101,Nubra – Ladakh. (India)
- Tel .:- +91-9820501211 / 8879001171
- Email :- info@shachoguesthouse.com . Web :- www.shachoguesthouse.com
- Facilities :- 9 furnished rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, LED TV, multi cuisine restaurant, bonfire, doctor on call, power back up, laundry & room service.
- SAND DUNES VIEW RESORT
- Address :-Hunder, Nubra, Leh Ladakh-194401
- Tel :- +91-9469176761 / +01980221060 / +01980200024
- E-mail :- info@sanddunesviewladakh.com
- Website :- www.sanddunesviewladakh.com
- Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, LED TV, multi cuisine restaurant, power back up, bonfire, doctor on call, laundry & room service.
- NUBRA EHNIC CAMP & RESORT.
- Address :- Hunder,Nubra Valley,Ladakh
- Tel : +91 – 6005532778 / 9906994499 / 9419518129
- Email : nubraethenic@gmail.com.
- Website :- www.nubrethniccamp.com
- Facilities :- Luxurious 20 Tents with LED TV, Free WiFi, attached bath. 24 hours hot water, power back up, Parking, doctor on call, bonfire & room service.
- HOTEL KARMA INN
- Address :- Hunder Road, Hundar, 194101
- Tel :- +91-099993 03050
- Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, running hot water, Free Wi-Fi, LED TV, multi cuisine restaurant, power back up, bonfire, doctor on call, laundry & room service.
THOISE
THOISE is a village about 19 kms from HUNDER and is a military Airbase in the NUBRA valley. While going further towards Turtuk, Those Airfield is on the right side just adjacent to the road. The slightly diagonal airstrip can be seen from the road. The airstrip is a critical facility enabling a quick inflow of men and material from the Indian interior to Siachen, a glacier, helipad and battleground near the Actual Ground Position Line between India and Pakistan.
THOISE is not a real name but an acronym “Transit Halt Of Indian Soldiers Enroute” (to Siachen). Thoise is about an hour and 20 minutes’ flight from Delhi.
TURTUK
Turtuk, an exotic Heavenly village is located on the banks of the Shyok river at a distance of 208 kms from Leh & at an altitude of 9,846 feet between Nubra & Baltistan. The population is about 3500 plus people. Geographically, Turtuk lies in the Baltistan Region and is one among four such villages in India, the other three being Tyakshi, Chalunkha and Dhothang. Turtuk is the last outpost of India at Dhothang after which Pakistan-controlled Gilgit-Baltistan begins. Turtuk is one of the gateways to the Siachen Glacier. Turtuk is known for its varieties of fruits especially apricots. While the pristine beauty of Turtuk had remained untouched ever since, the hospitality of the locals cannot go unnoticed.
LANGUAGES SPOKEN
Turtuk has a predominant Muslim population. The residents of Turtuk and its adjoining villages speak Balti language along with Ladakhi and Urdu. Balti language is like a confluence of Persian & Old Tibetan. In Balti language, the word Turtuk means “a desire to stay”. True to the meaning, this sentiment can be seen in the local people..
HISTORY
Prominently known as “a Village divided by a border”, Turtuk has many tales to narrate. This mysterious hamlet was once a part of the Pakistan Occupied territory of Kashmir until 1971 after which Turtuk was recaptured by Major Chewang Rinchen & India gained control of this strategic area. Post 1971, after its annexure in the Indian region, the local people found it very difficult to switch loyalties from Pakistan to India. Some of them had even served in the Pakistan Army before India’s take-over. Hence, expecting an overnight switchover of loyalties was impractical. Many residents also have relatives living across the Line of Control who are subjected to intimidation by the ISI. During the Kargil infiltration by Pakistan, some of the local people were suspected to have assisted the infiltrators. The Indian Army took some of them into custody, but later released all of them. The local people are said to be grateful for the consideration shown by the Army and currently support the Army’s initiatives such as the Operation Sadbhavana.
For years, Turtuk was kept secluded not only by the government, but by its uniquely imposing geography cradled by the Karakoram mountains. Due to its strategic geopolitical location and a military border, it remained closed to outsiders, even for the Indians in the next 39 years, until locals, weary of their long isolation, petitioned for the remote, scenic valley to open up for tourism.
As confirmed by locals in Turtuk, during one of my visit to this place, there existed a trade route between BATALIK & TURTUK. Although, the road route between these two locations is approximately 400 kms, this route which goes through the mountain ranges is just 40 kms (approx.). The locals used to trek this route with their horses / mules.
Turtuk is comprises of 3 different regions. The upper region after crossing the wooden bridge is the one where Turtuk was decades ago. It has expanded downwards on the banks of the Shyok river.
Chutang :- Chutang is located on the Banks of the river. It’s a hub of all educational & cultural activities. There is health centre too in Chutang.
Yul:- The word “Yul” means a village. This is the oldest place in Turtuk. Farming activities are done and it is lush green with vegetation.
Farol :- To reach Farol, you would have to cross the old wooden bridge. This place is inhabited with Guest Houses & Residences of the localites. All around you will see wheatbuck fields strewn across. One can see the K-2 peak from here.
WHAT TO SEE in TURTUK
- Thang is the outermost point of Turtuk sector in the direction of the LOC. It is at a distance of about 10 kilometers from Turtuk. The actual border from here is only about 2 kms.
- Natural Cold Storage– Perishables are stored in little hollows which remain cold due to an underground glacial water circulation which maintains low temperature throughout the year.
- A Historic Polo Ground– dated back in the 16th century. The youngsters love playing polo. See if you are lucky to be invited for a quick match.
- Brokpa Fort– Its now in ruins. But tells you the story of how the Yagbo royalty lived.
- Water Mill– a simple Greek-style watermill would take you back in olden times.
- A 16th Century Mosque, Balti Heritage House and Museum, Monastery: Beautiful locations exhibiting the prevailing cultural diversities.
- Waterfall– Once you reach the top, the view would mesmerize you. Everything would be worth the climb. Feast your eyes on K2, the second highest peak in the world. The climb is very treacherous with narrow paths and very close to the mountain side.
STAY OPTIONS AT TURTUK
There are no luxury hotels in this idyllic village. You will find quite a few home stays & guesthouses. The hospitality of this Balti Village is incomparable. A few of these are
ASHOOR GUEST HOUSE
Address :- Turtuk, Nubra Valley, Ladakh
Tel. :- 01980 248104/982050211/9419800776.
E-mail :- info@ashoorguesthouseturtuk.com
Website :- www.ashoorguesthouseturtuk.com
Facilities :- Well furnished rooms with attached bath, with running hot & cold water,multi cuisine restaurant, free parking, laundry, power backup & room service. I have personally stayed at Ashoor Guest House & my experience is quite good.
- ISMAIL HOMESTAY
- Address :- Turtuk, Nurbra Valley, Ladakh
- Tel :- Mr. Ismail – 9419300430
- BALTI GUEST HOUSE,
- Address :- Turtuk, Nurbra Valley, Ladakh
- Tel :- Mr.Abdullah – 94692 69426.
- MAHA GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Zangsti, Opp. Dzomsa, Near SBI, Main Bazar, Turtuk,194 101
Tel. :- +91-9419112174IMPORTANT INFORMATION
- Electricity is available only for a few hours during the day. Hence you need to charge your phones & cameras at the right time to avoid any disappointment.
- BSNL post paid connections work sometimes. No other services available.
- There is no petrol pump in Turtuk. The nearest one is in Diskit. Please carry sufficient fuel for the journey from Leh itself.
SUMUR
Located in the NUBRA Valley on the Right Side of the “Y” intersection, at an altitude of 10,157 feet and at a distance of 120 kms from Leh & 24 kms from KHALSAR is SUMUR village resting on the banks of the SIACHEN river. This amazingly picturesque settlement is a green spot in the NUBRA valley with vast expanses of fields. SUMUR offers an assortments of attractions like the SAMSTANLING, SUMUR & the CHARU monasteries. Its quite a peaceful village compared to HUNDER which has become an overcrowded hub due being the most preferred in the NUBRA valley. So people preferring some peace & solace can opt to stay at SUMUR. If you are keen to explore places on the Right Side of the “Y” intersection like PANAMIK, YARMA & upto WARSHI, an overnight stay at SUMUR can be considered as good option compared to Hunder which would be about 50-52 kms away.
There is also a lake by the name of YARAB TSO near the village. It is said that if you are spiritual enough, you can actually see the Potala Palace of Tibet in the magical Yarab Tso Lake. Very few tourists are aware of the existence of this wonderful gem of Ladakh. One can reach the lake by trekking for an hour from Sumur. You can always take a local to guide you & feed you with the history.
STAY OPTIONS AT SUMUR
- NUBRA ECOLODGE
- Address :- Desert Camp at Sumur, Nubra Valley, Ladakh 194401
- Tel. :- Sandeep / Norbu +91-9484082433 / +91 1980223550
Tel (Leh) :- Dechen Chosdol +919484082441 / +919797983088
Tel :- Stanzin Thimden +91 9419215912 - Tel (Leh) :- Dechen Chosdol +919484082441 / +919797983088
- Tel :- Stanzin Thimden +91 9419215912
- Email :- nubraecolodge@gmail.com.
- Website :- www.nubraecolodge.com
- Facilities :- 5 Cottages, 4 Safari Tents & Two Guest Rooms, Ideal for families OR groups.
- SILK ROUTE COTTAGES
- Address :- Sumur, Nubra Valley, J & K 194401.
- Tel. :- +91-9910329129 /9811595469 / 9650119494 / +91-11-26162705 / 26162706.
- Email :- silkroutecottage@gmail.com
- Website :- www.silkroutecottages.com
- Facilities :- Bamboo Huts with attached bath, hot & cold running water & room service.
- AO GUEST HOUSE & HOMESTAY
- Address :- Sumur Village, Sumur 194401 India
- Tel :- +91-9469731976 / 9469777716
- Facilities :- Clean rooms with attached bath,
running hot & cold water, Free Wi-Fi, free parking & room service. - Hotel Yarab Tso, Tiger
- Address :- Nubra, B.P.O. Sumur, Nubra, Leh (Ladakh)
- Tel :- +91-9622820661 / 9419977423
- E-mail :- infohotel@hotelyarabtso.com.
- Website :- www.hotelyarabtso.com
- Facilities :- 8 double bed rooms, 2 family suites
with attached bath, car parking, laundry & room service. - LARJAY RESORT
- Address :- SUMUR, NUBRA VALLEY
- Tel :- +91-1985 223510 / 9419177498
- K-SAR GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Sumur, Nubra Valley, Ladakh
- Tel :- +91-94697 24791
PANAMIK
Located at a distance of 143 kms from Leh & 23 kms further to SUMUR, PANAMIK is a place known for Hot Water Springs emerging from the adjacent mountains. There is a proper concrete structure made out with provisions for changing clothes & taking a bath for men & women.
It’s my personal opinion, if you had visited Hot Water Spring sites like MANIKARAN, VASHISTH KUND & TATTAPANI in the Himachal Pradesh, PANAMIK would be a disappointment to you. The emerging water springs were hardly visible & the water is diverted & stored in a small pool inside a concrete structure.
Ensa Gompa is another revered monastery perched on the mountain top across the Siachen river. One can experience an amazing view from the village of Panamik. This 400-year-old Gompa is famous for Buddhist murals and was an important learning center for nearby villages.
STAY OPTIONS AT PANAMIK
- MOUNTAIN HOMESTAYS
- Address :- Panamik, Ladakh. J & K
- Tel :- +91-99230 60619.
- Email :- info@mountainhomestays.com
- Website :- www.mountainhomestays.com
- NEBULA GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Panamik, Leh Ladakh – 194401
- Tel. :- 01985-247013 / 09469180553
WARSHI VILLAGE
Loated at a distance of 182 kms from Leh in the Nubra Valley, WARSHI village has been thrown open recently to the Indian tourist. You would not require any specific permits to reach WARSHI, but SIACHEN base camp is not permitted for civilians, it being a border area. WARSHI is about 39 kms further to PANAMIK. Beyond Panamik, you can now add TAKSHA, SASOMA & WARSHI. YARMA GOMPA, YARMA GONBU can be covered enroute WARSHI.
Opening of these routes for the tourists has greatly helped the locals, since the entire Ladakh region depends heavily on tourism. With the inflow of tourists, numerous avenues have opened up for the locals to serve tourism.
TO SUMARIZE
I presume the above article would be able to help you with the planning for NUBRA VALLEY This article gives a fair idea of the number of Days to be plannd, routes to be taken, stay options, sight seeing places,
If you find this article helpful, please share the same with your friends, families &
contacts.
You can also share your experiences, add details / updates on the subject. You are most welcome to put forward any travel questions which you would have in planning a trip to Ladakh. Please feel free to write to me in the comments section below.
PANGONG TSO
After the hit of the Megabuster Bollywood Movie “3 Idiots” in 2009, PANGONG lake has emerged as the most desired place in Ladakh. A visit to Ladakh without a trip to Pangong Tso is not considered to be complete.
PANGONG Lake or PANGONG TSO is one of the most beautiful hidden gems of Ladakh. The mesmerizing beauty of the crystal clear aqua blue waters, the contrast barren colors of the surrounding snowcapped mountains, the serene atmosphere which one can experience gives a romantic touch to an evening on the banks of the Pangong Lake. The everchanging aqua green / blue colors of the pristine lake in response to the different shades of light during the course of the day gives it a different aura throughout the day.
My first visit to Leh was in 2000, when this lake was not so popular. Neither did we have the time to fit it in our itinerary, nor were we aware of what we were going to miss. During that time, about 80% of the tourist in Ladakh were foreigners. Indian tourists were very rare in the Ladakh region.
PANGONG Tso is a brackish water lake. There are no fish or other aquatic life on the Indian side of the lake, except for some small crustaceans. On the other hand, visitors see numerous ducks and gulls over and on the lake surface.
The lake acts as an important breeding ground for a variety of birds including a number of migratory birds. During summer, the Bar-headed goose and Brahmini ducks are commonly seen here. The region around the lake supports a number of species of wildlife including the kiang and the marmot.
Formerly, Pangong Tso had an outlet to Shyok River, a tributary of Indus River, but it was closed off due to natural damming. Two streams feed the lake from the Indian side, forming marshes and wetlands at the edges. Strand lines above current lake level reveal a 5 m (16 ft) thick layer of mud and laminated sand, suggesting the lake has shrunken recently in geological scale The low biodiversity has been reported as being due to high salinity and harsh environmental conditions.
GEOGRAPHY
Pangong Lake is located at a height of 14,270 feet about sea level, at a distance of 158 kms from Leh. The waters of this enchanting lake are about 5 kms wide at its broadest point & stretches 134 kms long in Tibet. Out of the entire stretch, 40% of the lake is in the Indian territory, while 60% lies in the Tibet.
THINGS TO DO AT PANGONG TSO
- Watching the beauty of the lake itself is the main attraction of Pangong Tso. You can visit the spot where the climax scene of “3 IDIOTS” was shot. It’s a beautiful place to spend the evening. Watch the blue skies in the backdrop of the barren mountains & the pristine blue waters.
- In the evening, make a barbeque and place a bonfire. It may be difficult to leave the warmth of your tent, but this unique experience would be something memorable.
- Watch the starry skies in the night. You would never have seen the skies full of so many stars. Immerse your soul in the oneness of the skies & the universe. Carry a camera to capture such splendid moments.
- Many tourists make a one day trip to Pangong due to time limitations. I strongly recommend you to make an overnight stay at Pangong & then return to LEH OR proceed further to TSOMORIRI / HANLE. In a single day trip to PANGONG, you would not be able to experience the true beauty of this heavenly place.
WHEN CAN I VISIT PANGONG LAKE
Tourism in Ladakh opens up by the end of May & lasts till early October. Most of the tented accommodations, homestays, restaurants open up during this period & a wide assortment of stay options are thrown open to the inflow of tourists. This is the best time to visit PANGONG TSO. The snow has completely melted & the multi colored shades of the lake are a feast to your eyes.
PANGONG would be accessible through the year except for some times when CHANGLA pass would be closed due to heavy snowfall. However, stay options would be very limited to a few homestays & guest houses at Tangste, Spangmik, Man & Merak. The weather would be harsh & unbearable. Its generally not recommended to visit Pangong during this time. However, if you are keen on seeing the frozen Pangong Lake, you can do it in January or February after checking the weather conditions in Leh. During winters, the lake freezes and it becomes possible to even walk over it, although its not the best idea to try doing so.
HOW DO I REACH PANGONG TSO
There are four routes to reach PANGONG
ROUTE 1 LEH to PANGONG (169 kms)
LEH – 34 kms – KARU – 14 kms – SAKTI – 34 kms – CHANG LA – 29 kms – DURBUK – 10 kms – TANGSTE – 35 kms – LUKUNG – 13 kms – SPANGMIK :- TOTAL 169 kms.
This is a conventional route for tourist starting from LEH to PANGONG Lake. It takes about 6 hours to cover this 169 kms stretch. The road is completely tarred except for a short stretch of 5 kms before CHANG LA (on Leh side) & 10 kms after CHANG LA (on the PANGONG side). The last 5 kms before CHANGLA are quite tough with some snow covered surfaces, loose grave, steep incline & scarcity of oxygen. Bikers are required to be cautious in maneuvering, since the engines gasps for oxygen. You can visit the CHANGLA baba temple at CHANGLA pass. There is a military canteen, which can offer you a cup of tea. I had even eaten vegetable momos during one of my journeys. Believe me in that cold, you would bite into anything which comes across. Take photographs at the 3rd highest motorable pass at 17,450 feet, enjoy the snow capped views of the adjoining mountains. Beyond CHANG LA, the next descend of 10 kms continues on bad roads. There is a wide water crossing at the end of the descend. The force of the flowing water is quite strong, but doable on bikes. Roads thereafter till Durbuk & Tangste continue to be good. At Tangste, you would be required to register with a copy of your permit. Except for a few small sand covered stretches beyond Tangste, the road continues to be good till Spangmik. As you approach Pangong, you will see a stretch of water which mostly is mistook for Pangong, but it’s a small catchment area. About an hour or so after Tangste, you will see a blue stretch of water on the horizon at LUKUNG. Beyond LUKUND the road runs parallel to the lake. It runs upwards on a small Ghat & descends further to Spangmik.
ROUTE 2 :- NUBRA to PANGONG TSO
If you are travelling to NUBRA valley, there exists two routes which can directly take you to Pangong Tso. Since most of the tourists coming to Ladakh do not want to miss out on NUBRA & PANGONG, it is recommended that you save one day of your travel back to Leh & reach PANGONG directly. The below 2 routes would help you reach PANGONG directly.
NUBRA to PANGONG TSO (via WARI LA)
Diskit – 22 kms – Khalsar – 26 kms – Agham – 34 kms – Wari La –22 kms – Tathok – 3 kms – Sakti – 34 kms – Chang La – 32 kms – Durbuk –10 kms – Tangste – 35 kms- Lukung –10 kms- Spangmik :- TOTAL 228 kms
This is a desolate high altitude pass and a longer route of the two routes from NUBRA to PANGONG TSO. It would take about 10-12 hours to cover the 228 kms and reach PANGONG via WARI LA depending on your speed & the intermittent breaks. However, till a few years ago, this was considered to be the only route, since the direct route via SHYOK was highly unpredictable & very difficult.
WARI LA is at a height of 17,427 feet, at a distance of 73 kms from Leh & 82 kms from DISKIT. The ascend toward WARI LA is very steep & your vehicle would gasp out of breath due to the low oxygen levels. There are a few nasty water crossing enroute. The route via WARI LA is very isolated, challenging & it would be a nightmare if you are stuck up with a vehicle breakdown. It could be hours before you could get help. Hence, if you are approaching on this route, you need to be prepared. I personally would not recommend travelling solo on this route due to the nature of the road & the route’s isolation. If you are a couple of riders OR in a group, then no problem. If you are on a self drive, carry the necessary tools and equipment just in case of any emergency.
Please check at Agham village about the road conditions at WARI LA before you proceed. In case you are travelling solo, please see if you can tag along with any ongoing vehicles on the route. No special permits are required to travel on this route.
ROUTE 3:- HUNDER to PANGONG (via SHYOK VILLAGE)
Hunder – 13 kms = Diskit – 22 kms – Khalsar – 26 kms – Agham – 47 kms – Shyok Village -15 kms Durbuk –10 kms – Tangste – 35 kms- Lukung –10 kms- Spangmik :- TOTAL 165 kms
This route has been the most intrigued one due to its shortest distance between NUBRA & PANGONG TSO. Another angle which had added to its attraction & curiosity was the prohibitorily high difficulty level of this route. “Z”section water crossings, landslide prone areas & uneven roads had always posed a challenge to any driver.
Offlate, the scenario has changed and road conditions have improved making the route doable for 2 & 4 wheeler vehicles, thanks to the BRO for all their efforts in the midst of the extreme climatic conditions and adversities. Especially, when you are travelling on such tricky sections, flow of water streams tend to become stronger as the day progresses. There is a huge difference in crossing such sections in the morning & in late afternoon (typically after 02:00-03:00 pm). The best option is to start early and reach early.
Hunder to Khalsar section is one of the most beautiful section with gigantic mountains, vast valleys, tarred roads till the horizon. Shortly beyond KHALSAR the road begins to ascend when you come across two roads at an intersction. The road on the right goes to Leh via Khardung La & the left road goes to AGHAM. Take the Agham road & enter the Shyok Valley. Most of the road travels alongside the SHYOK river (literally means the River of Death). The river is known for its unpredictability. This road would take you through all kinds of terrains.
At Agham, please take a feedback from the oncoming vehicles on the road conditions before you proceed. WARI LA route is longer & desolate, but not as dangerous as the SHYOK route.
At AGHAM, the road further divides into 2 paths. It is indicated by a small sign, which could most likely be missed out (keep a tab on the speedometer to ensure that you have not crossed it). The one on the right goes to Sakti Village via WARI LA & the road towards the left proceeds on the banks of the SHYOK river to SHYOK village.
The next few kilometres, you would find yourself crossing riverbeds, juggling with boulders, looking out for sharp stones. At times early in July, when the SHYOK river water level swells, these stretches become very difficult to maneuver. You would even find 4 x 2 mid range SUV’s struggling to get across these stretches
Read my article on Offroading & maneuvering on tricky sections
.Of course, the 4 x 4 vehicles would find it quite manageable. But indeed it’s a different experience which one should go through. Out of the complete route, the Agham to Shyok section is the most toughest. Beyond Shyok village till Durbuk, the drive is quite scenic compared to the SHYOK river. At Durbuk, the road reconnects to the Leh – Pangong Lake road.
STAY OPTIONS AT PANGONG LAKE
Some 2 decades ago in 2000, when I visited Leh for the first time with my 3 friends, Pangong Lake was a name which was rarely heard. In fact, I had mentioned in my article that about 80% of the tourists were foreigners. If I recollect now, I feel like kicking myself for not visiting Pangong Lake in 2000 since we were just not sure whether making a 2 day trip to see a lake would be worth it or not. After the release of the superhit movie “3 Idiots” in 2009, tourism in Ladakh has sprouted from all angles. Stay options at Pangong Lake have started expanding to meet the increasing demand of the tourists. Today as we speak, there are countless options ranging from Rs.300 to Rs.10,000 at Pangong Lake.
Hotel tariffs are negotiable & would depend on demand / supply conditions. If you try to pre-book them, there is very less scope for negotiations. If you are very particular about the facilities & the quality of the accommodation, stay etc. you should pre-book it.
However, the best option would be to start EARLY & reach EARLY (say by 03:00 pm – 04:00 pm) & directly approach them. Based on the availability of accommodation, you can bargain for good rates. Reach early & approach tented accommodations which has no tourists or a few tourists. They would be more inclined to close the deal of unsold rooms. If you arrive late, they can sense your urgency & may not be as responsive to your bargaining, especially if you are with your family. In an online / direct pre-booking, you may not be assured of a specific room. Mostly, those who are booked take the privilege to reach as per their convenience & end up with left over rooms (of course from the same category).
Stay at Pangong Lake are available in 4 options.
- Luxurious Tented Accomodation / Camp Sites.
This is the most popular accommodation option at Pangong Tso. These camp sites are put up on the banks of the Pangong Lake offering excellent views from the doorstep. They are advertised at almost every online booking site OR have their own websites. Prices quoted are at a premium in the range of Rs.2,500-Rs.10,000/- with all inclusions. You have the option to pre-book such tented accommodation. If you are travelling with a family & seeking peace of mind, then you may choose this (although I personally never recommend to pre-book). Pangong Lake being an offbeat destination, please do not expect too much. In general, electric supply would be available for 4-5 hours between 07:00 pm to 11:00 pm. Hot water would be provided in buckets only in the mornings. Clean tents with 2-3 beds with blankets would be provided. Prices are inclusive of dinner & morning breakfast.
2.Unfeatured Tented Accomodation / Camp Sites.
This type in my opinion is the best amongst all the options. These are similar to the above category, but you won’t find any listing on websites OR online booking portals. In terms of the facilities, these Tented accommodations would be more or less at par with the above category. One such option is PADMA HOMESTAY. They have tents right on the shore of the Pangong Lake. The tents were clean, spacious & with attached baths. You can directly reach them & negotiate. Similarly, there are other tented accommodations too. Rates would range between Rs.700-1200 per person depending on the extent to which they are booked / occupied. The best option is to reach a little early (say by 04:00pm) & check for tented options which are not occupied / least occupied. They may quote anything, but the above range is a benchmark. You can bargain hard & depending on the availability, they would be responsive to your negotiations
3.CHADAR TENTS / Common Tents.
Dormitory stay would be a more appropriate word for your understanding. These are big tents with a kitchen in the front side & beds on the rear side. For Budget Travellers, this is the best option. Mostly people reach Pangong by the evening, and check out by the next morning after breakfast. After dinner, all you have to do is to hit the bed. These are very economical in the range of Rs.250-300/- excluding food.
4.HOMESTAYS
Almost every house in the village serves as a Homestay for travellers. Those who want to experience the warmth of the local folk, can approach the localites. This would be the most appropriate way to mingle amongst the villagers, take a feel of the culture & the lifestyle of the residents. They would most gladly take you through the history of Pangong Lake. To know more about Pangong & Ladakh, nothing can be a better idea than this. Charges would be very nominal between Rs.500-1000/- per person including dinner & breakfast. Additionally, you can experience the local Ladakhi cuisine.
Other options like Hotels & Guest Houses are almost negligible except for the PANGONG CAMP RESORT managed by the JKTDC & a few more are heard of. I have always stayed in PADMA TENTS & have always reached them directly without any pre-booking. Few of the stay options are listed below.
- PADMA HOME STAY (TENTED ACCOMODATION)
- Address :- Spangmik, Ladakh.
- Tel :- 9469515696 and 9469059322.
- Price :- Rs.800-1000 per person including dinner & breakfast.
- Review :- I had personally stayed at PADMA Tented Accomodation for 3 times in 2013, 2015 & 2017. I found it to be the most economically priced tented accommodation. Tents are at a stones throw from the lake and located right opposite to the check post at Spangmik. Of course, although not luxurious, tents are quite spacious, comfortable & clean with attached western toilets. Recommended for families too.
- GONGMA HOMESTAY
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Lake Road, Leh Ladakh – 194201
- Tel :- +91-9469534270.
- WONDERLAND CAMP
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Tso, Ladakh
- Tel :- 094191 77723
- PANGONG DELIGHT CAMP
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Tso, Ladakh
- Tel :- +91-94192 18649 / 9596811649
- PANGONG CAMP RESORT JKTDC
- Address :- Spangmik, About 2 kms before Spangmik & Opposite to the 3 Idiots Shooting Point, Pangong Tso, Ladakh
- Tel :- 0191 254 9065
- Price Range :- Rs. 3500 -4000/-
- Review :- The only cemented accommodation in Pangong. Comfortable rooms with attached bathrooms, good food, hot water provided in buckets. Need to pre-book, but is overpriced for the facilities, but is a most ideal option for families.
- PANGONG RESORT & CAMP
- Tel : +91 94-19-178903
- Email : lumbini.hotel.group@gmail.com
- PANGONG RETREAT CAMP
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong Lake Road, Ladakh 194101•
- Tel. :- +91-9906090229
- Leh :- Overland Escape, Raku Complex, Fort Road, Leh, Ladakh 194101
- Tel :- +91 1982 252105 / 252108 / +91 8491947042
- E-mail :- info@pangongretreat.com / info@overlandescape.com
- Review :- On the basis of the reviews taken from other websites, the place appears to be quite decent with spacious tents with attached western toilets, courteous hospitable staff etc.
- HIMALAYAN RETREAT
- Address :- Spangmik, Pangong, Ladakh.
- Tel :- 022-6150 6363.
- Email :- himalayanretreatpangong@nivalink.co.in
- Review :- Good reviews of this place. Quite suitable for families. Decent places, spacious tents with attached western toilets & good staff.
CAREFULLY PLAN YOUR TRIP TO PANGONG TSO.
PANGONG Lake being a high altitude lake, there is a scarcity of oxygen at that altitude. It is therefore essential, that your body is properly acclimatized to suit itself. On arrival in Leh by Flight / Bus, it is essential that you spend a couple of days in Leh OR do some local sight seeing before you proceed to Pangong Lake. Acute Mountain Sicknes (AMS ) is very common and if not attended can even be fatal. There are many cases in every season of people getting hospitalized & ruining the whole trip. Patients with a prior history of any Lungs & Heart ailment should use their doctor’s advise before proceeding for high altitudes. For safety purpose, you can carry oxygen cannister for emergency.
TO SUMARIZE
I presume the above article would be able to give you a clear idea of Pangong Tso, the stay options, the routes to Pangong from various locations, the duration taken by each of them, the pleasures you stand to experience and the associated risks.
If you find this article helpful, please share the same with your friends, families & contacts.
You can also share your experiences, add details / updates on the subject. You are most welcome to put forward any travel questions which you would have in planning a trip to Ladakh. Please feel free to write to me in the comments section below.
TSOMORIRI LAKE
Nestled in the Changthang plateau of Ladakh, TSOMORIRI lake is one of the most enchanting & serene high altitude lake of India. TSOMORIRI LAKE is picturesquely located in the secluded & divinely beautiful Rupshu Valley. The aqua blue lake is about 19 kms long & 7 kms wide at its broadest point. TSOMORIRI being a part of the wetland reserve under the Ramsar site, it is known as Tsomoriri Wetland Conservation Reserve. To ensure its conservation, tourists are not permitted to pitch tents on its banks. Flanked by lofty mountains towering in the backdrop of KORZOK village, TSOMORIRI lake is partly brackish, since a part of it is fed by fresh water from the melting glaciers. Most water enters the lake in two major stream systems, one entering the lake from the north, the other from the southwest. Both stream systems include extensive marshes where they enter the lake. Although PANGONG TSO is bigger in size, TSOMORIRI is considered to be a largest high altitude lake which is entirely in the Indian territory. This place experiences very harsh climatic conditions & the lake remains frozen during winters.
It is very difficult to say which amongst PANGONG & TSOMORIRI is more beautiful. Personally, I have not missed any one of them on my biking tour to Ladakh.
Spend a peaceful evening on the banks of the enchanting Tsomoriri lake & experience the peace & solitude of the place. Watching the aqua blue colors of the lake is blissful to your mind & soul. Although, Pangong Tso becomes a first choice in Lakes for most of the tourist visiting Ladakh, Tsomoriri has offlate started seeing many visitors. Since, it is very near to the Line of Actual Control, one need to get Inner Line Permit to visit Tso Moriri. There are quite a few cemented guest houses / accommodation and a few camp sites in Korzok village. Facilities like electricity, medical aid, hot running water, western toilets etc. are rare to find.
Being a high altitude lake with low oxygen levels, proper acclimatization of your body is a key essential to avoid being hit by Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) during the tour. Hence please plan your visit itinerary in such a way that NUBRA Valley & PANGONG TSO are visited before TSOMORIRI lake.
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
TSOMORIRI is located at a distance of 230 km from LEH at an altitude of 4.522 mtr (14,836 feet) above sea level. From Pangong Lake, Tsomoriri is at a distance of 210 kms (via LOMA bend). It is also at a distance of 110 kms from Debring on the Manali – Leh highway.
WEATHER CONDITIONS
Winters from December to March in Tsomoriri are usually characterized by extreme cold conditions & the mercury dips to sub-zero levels. The lake remains mostly frozen during this period. During summers April onwards, the lake starts melting & gets transformed into beautiful shades of green and blue. Days can be windy & cold while nights nearing 0 deg. C.
RIGHT TIME TO VISIT TSOMORIRI
Generally, the lake begins to melt in April. Hence it is accessible between May to September / October. Homestays, tented accommodations, camp sites in Korzok are thrown open during this period. People travelling by Air may be able to visit even in the early May. Those who travel by Road / Rail would have to wait till the access routes of ZOJILA & BARALA CHA open up by the end of May. It’s a peak tourist season between May to September. The inflow of tourist is relatively less during September & October. Many enthusiasts opt for this season to enjoy the peace & experience the vibrant colors of the lake in the backdrop of the Korzok mountain.
Between November to April, the season recedes as winter sets in, freezing the lake gradually. Except for a few homestays in Korzok & Chumathang, everything becomes closed.
HOW TO REACH TSOMORIRI from LEH / MANALI
TSOMORIRI being 222 kms from Leh, it would be very hectic to make a day trip & return back to Leh. Evenings are very peaceful & beautifu in Tsomoriri. Hence it is recommended to make a two day trip. If you start in the morning, it should take about 6-7 hours depending on the number of halts / breaks which you take. Tourist who are short on time can also cover SHEY, THIKSEY, HEMIS, STAKNA Monasteries on the route OR on the way back. You can return the next day to Leh OR proceed to exit directly on the Manali side at Moore Planes a little after Debring on the Manali-Leh Highway.
HOW TO REACH TSOMORIRI LAKE
By Air
The nearest Airport is the Leh International Airport.
By Train
ROUTES
ROUTE “A” LEH TO TSOMORIRI (via UPSHI – CHUMATHANG – MAHE)
Leh – 34 kms – Karu – 13 kms – Upshi – 54 kms – Kumdok – 8 kms – Kere – 31 kms – Chumathang – 24 kms – Mahe – 16 kms – Sumdo – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – Korzok (Tsomoriri):- TOTAL 222 kms.
Drive till UPSHI is Ok. But beyond UPSHI, the road enters narrow valleys alongside the Indus river till CHUMATHANG. On both sides of the road, you will find high mountains and you would be travelling in a narrow valley upto Chumathang. To me, the road was a bit kind of gloomy & depressing to go on. The road condition is fairly good with some rough roads beyond UPSHI for about 15 odd kms. The road remains fairly good after that till Kiagar Tso. Beyond that the final 20 kms till Korzok are loose gravel & dirt track.
ROUTE “B” LEH to TSOMORIRI (via Debring – SUMDO – MAHE)
Leh – 34 kms – Karu – 13 kms – Upshi – 61 kms – Tanglang la – 14 kms – Debring – 31 kms – Tsokar – 37 kms – SUMDO – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – KORZOK (TSOMORIRI :- TOTAL 238 kms.
This is quite a good scenic route compared to the Chumathang route, although a bit longer. In my opinion, you should try this either while going to Tsomoriri OR while returning to LEH, just to get an experience of both the routes.
On this route you continue on the Manali -Leh Highway, ascend TANGLANG LA beyond Rumste and reach Debring. A little beyond Debring, at the point where MOORE PLAINS start, you will find a road on your left towards TSOKAR lake. You would be exiting the Manali Leh Road at this point & continuing to TSOKAR. Beyond TSOKAR, the road turn into dirt tracks all the way along through POLO KONGKA LA & till SUMDO. At SUMDO, you should take a right for KORZOK (Tsomoriri). From SUMDO to KIAGAR TSO, roads would be good with tarmac. The last 15-20 kms a little after KIAGAR TSO would again be a dirt track till KORZOK.
ROUTE “C” PANGONG to TSOMORIRI (via CHUSUL-LOMA-NYOMA)
PANGONG TSO – 9 kms – MAN –11 kms – MERAK – 26 kms – CHUSUL – 12 kms – REZANG LA – 19 kms – TSAGA – 34 kms – LOMA BEND – 24 kms – NYOMA – 20 kms – MAHE – 16 kms – SUMDO – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – KORZOK (TSOMORIRI :- TOTAL 213 kms.
YES” friends, it is possible to directly travel between PANGONG lake & TSOMORIRI lake. Offlate this route has gained immense popularity for people seeking adventure. Secondly, the serenity & the scenic beauty of PANGONG lake beyond MERAK is incomparable & enchanting than the conventional route. This extract will cover all the tips to travel on this route & make you familiar with the associated risks too.
- This route passes very close to the INDO-CHINA border. This route being a very sensitive border area, travel along this route requires an ILP specifically highlighting that you intend to travel on this route. It requires you to mention all the places enroute TSOMORIRI / HANLE mentioned above.
- Only Indian tourist are allowed to travel on this route. Foreigners are not allowed beyond MERAK. Compared to the Leh Pangong route, there are very few tourists who travel on this route. You would not find a vehicle in sight for miles. This route is absolutely isolated beyond MERAK.
- There are no tar roads beyond PANGONG. In fact you won’t find any roads beyond Merak. You would have to follow the visible tracks of the vehicles that have passed from that route & keep a constant eye on the direction.
- As the road diverges deep inside a few kilometres beyond MERAK, you would not even find the tracks.
- While travelling between MERAK & CHUSUL, I had lost track a couple of times & had to backtrack to explore other tracks.
- Keep an eye on the Electricity poles nearby. They serve as a guideline & a direction to your travel on this route. The Electric Poles which may not exactly travel with you, but would ultimately converge on the Indian side. In case you come across a tricky bend where poles are not visible, try taking the right route. The left route should be avoided as it could lead you to the Chinese side.
- Keep basic spares, puncture repair kits, check the spare wheel (4 wheeler) for adequate pressure. If you get stranded, you would be in the middle of nowhere. Getting help would be very difficult. Do stop for a while to enjoy the vistas & to give a break to the vehicle. Do not overexert the engine.
- Beyond Chusul, do make a halt at REZANG LA for a cup of tomato soup from the Army camp. Do read the story of the 1962 war, where an army company of 120 jawans led by Maj. Shaitan Singh fought against waves of Chinese ingression & gave the supreFme sacrifice. Believe me, there would be no Indian who would not be moved to tears after reading the story.
- Road beyond Rezang La would continue to the the same till you pass TSAGA LA. On the left side, you will find endless stretches of vast valleys. Just before TSAGA village, you would be greeted with tarred roads about 85 kms from PANGONG lake. Proceed till LOMA, where you take the left for HANLE & the right for TSOMORIRI.
- At MAHE checkpost, register yourself & take a left on the bridge for KORZOK (Tsomoriri) further 60 kms.
In a nutshell, this is an offbeat route, but the real glimpses & beauty of PANGONG lake is beyond MAN & MERAK. The lake widens at a certain point glittering the aqua green colors in all its grandeur. I would strongly recommend you all to experience this route, not for the purpose of saving one day, but to enjoy the true beauty & explore these virgin treasures of the Ladakh reg
ROUTE “D” (PANGONG TO TSOMORIRI via KAKSANG LA)
PANGONG TSO – 9 kms – MAN –11 kms – MERAK – 26 kms – CHUSUL – NAMA – KAKSANG LA – HORALA – MAHE – 15 kms – SUMDO – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – TSOMORIRI (KORZOK) :- TOTAL 180 kms
The route from Pangong Tso to Chusul remains the same as above. At Chusul, instead of proceeding towards, Rezang La on the left side, one has to go straight towards towards NAMA & then KAKSANG LA, HORALA & then MAHE. The road after NAMA to KAKSANG LA & on the other side has sharp stones. These stones are capable of damaging your tires and can leave you stranded at a desolate location. Hence please carry a good puncture repair kit and a reliable spare tube. From HORALA to MAHE, the road conditions improve. This route is rarely used by people and there is hardly a chance that you would come across anyone except for the army. In all probabilities, the Army may even restrict you to proceed beyond NAMA.
I would still recommend the CHUSUL- TSAGA – LOMA route due to the vistas although a bit longer.
ROUTE “E” (PANGONG to TSOMORIRI via CHUMATHANG)
Spangmik – 13 kms – Lukung – 35 kms – Tangste – 10 kms – Durbuk – 29 kms – Chang La – 34 kms – Sakti – 14 kms – Karu – 13 kms – Upshi – 54 kms – Kumdok – 8 kms – Kere – 30 kms – Chumathang – 24 kms – Mahe – 16 kms – Sumdo – 22 kms – Kiagar Tso – 20 kms – Korzok (Tsomoriri):- TOTAL 322 kms.
Although longer, this route can be used by Foreign nationals who are running short of time & would like to avoid going back to Leh. This indirect route backtracks till KARU on the PANGONG TSO – LEH route & takes a left towards Upshi & Chumathang to reach KORZOK (Tsomoriri). You would be required to start early since this route would take about 12-13 hours. I would definitely say that this journey is quite tiring.
ROUTE “F” (HANLE to TSOMORIRI (3 ROUTES)
From Hanle, there exists 3 routes to reach Tsomoriri.
Route 1 :- HANLE – 50 kms – LOMA BEND – 24 kms – NYOMA – 20 kms – MAHE – 16 kms – SUMDO – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – KORZOK (TSOMORIRI :- TOTAL 213 kms.
This is the most convenient & conventional route followed by a majority of the tourists. You backtrack for 50 kms to LOMA bend, then after crossing the bridge, take a left & continue on the NYOMA route till MAHE. At Mahe, take a left & cross the MAHE bridge & continue till SUMDO. At SUMDO, take a left for KORZOK & continue straight till KORZOK (Tsomoriri Lake). The last 15-20 kms upto KORZOK are dirt track & loose gravel.
Route 2 :- HANLE -53 kms-SALSAL LA- 33 kms CHUMUR diversion – 77 kms – KORZOK (via CHARCHAGAN LA):- 163 kms (Chumur Route)
Its very unlikely that you would get permits to travel by the CHUMUR route. CHUMUR village is very close to the Indo-China border & permits are generally not issued to travel on this route. In case you manage to get the permits, there would be nothing like this wondrous adventure. However, the road conditions are extremely bad & is its a completely isolated route. This route would require a 4 x 4 SUV. It is recommended to travel in groups or tag along with some vehicle on this route. In the eventuality of any breakdown / difficulty, help would be very difficult to obtain.
After driving for about 50 kms from Hanle, you would come across a diversion. The road on the left continues to Chumur via Salsal La. Just before Chumur, you will come across another bifurcation. The road on the left continues to Chumur village & the road on the right side goes to KORZOK via Charchagan LA. From Chumur, the road continues for about 77 kms & descends on the opposite side of KORZOK. While descending you can see the Tsomoriri Lake & Korzok village from the opposite side. The pristine blue lake in all its grandeur is a divine sight to experience from this end of the world.
Even if you have permits, the Army may not allow you to travel on this route OR visit CHUMUR village. You need to be real lucky to get the permits via this route.
Route 3 :- HANLE – 13 kms – Punguk – 39 kms – Ryul Tso – Chilling Tso – 38 kms – Nyoma 20 kms – MAHE – 16 kms – SUMDO – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – KORZOK (TSOMORIRI :- TOTAL 168 kms.
This route connects NYOMA directly as an alternate route bypassing the LOMA BEND. It passes throught Punguk village & takes you via 2 beautiful lakes namely RYUL TSO & CHILLING TSO. Further to these 2 lakes, it passes through THIT ZORBITLA pass & connects NYOMA . Take a left turn at NYOMA & continue on the same route till Mahe. From NYOMA to Tsomoriri, the route would remain the same as per Route 1.
ROUTE “F” (MANALI to TSOMORIRI via SARCHU – MOORE PLAINS) DO NOT USE THIS ROUTE.
Manali – 115 kms – Keylong – 76 kms – Baralacha La – 32 kms – Sarchu – 76 kms – Pang – 38 kms– Moore Plains (converging point from Leh side) – 16 kms-Tsokar Lake – – 37 kms – SUMDO – 22 kms – KIAGAR TSO – 20 kms – KORZOK (TSOMORIRI) :- TOTAL 432 kms
To optimize on the travel time & to prevent frequent back & forth travel, it is quite logical that people travelling from Manali to Leh would come up with this question. This would be more tempting for tourist who plan to reach Leh from the Manali side & exit from the Srinagar side on the Srinagar-Leh Highway. However, it is NOT RECOMMENDED to visit Tsomoriri Lake via this route for the below given reasons
- To ensure that you do not get hit by AMS, it is essential that your body gets gradually acclimatized at ascending altitudes. While travelling on this route, you would be at 6398 ft in Manali on Day 1, Day 2 at Keylong, 10,100 ft & on Day 3 at Tsomoriri 14,836 feet. This steep gain of altitude is more than enough to be hit by In fact, it is highly recommended to avoid SARCHU on Day 2 since SARCHU is at 14,070 feet. Imagine, that you are travelling in a group and one person gets affected, it could not only ruin your trip, but would seriously land the person in trouble.
- Symptoms of AMS are usually ignored by the victim OR misinterpreted as travel fatigue OR tiredness. By the time, it is diagnosed, the victim could be in an advanced stage. Tsomoriri (Korzok) is not equipped to handle AMS cases. As such, you are looking for about another 7-8 hours drive to the nearest competent medical facility in Leh. These 8 hours would be decisive in aggravating the case and could also be fatal.
- Inner Line permits are required to visit Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, Hanle & Tsomoriri lake. These ILP’s are required to be obtained from Leh D.C.’s office. Even if you apply online, the permits would have to be stamped by the D.C.’s office. Hence even if you reach Tsomoriri, you would not be allowed to enter the area.
- As per the rules of Leh Taxi Union & Leh Bike Rental union, taxis and bikes hired from regions other than Leh (including Himachal Pradesh) would not be permitted to visit any sight-seeing places in and around Leh. Unless you are looking for trouble with an unacclimatized body, this should be clearly avoided. Of course, this does not apply unless you are travelling in a self-owned car or a bike,
PREFERRED VEHICLES
- Any 2 wheeler of 150 cc onwards is OK, provided it is serviced & maintained properly. Although most of the riders travel on Enfield Bullets (I too ride a Bullet Classic 350), its absolutely not mandatory. Do carry spares, puncture repair kits, airpumps etc. Tyres are preferred to be tubeless although not mandatory. Puncture Repair become easier comparatively.
- For 4 wheelers, if you are travelling on the LEH-TSOMORIRI route via UPSHI – CHUMATHANG, a hatchback OR a sedan can make it.
- But if you are travelling on any other routes, a mid-sized, high ground clearance SUV’s (say 190mm & above) would be preferred. Its not mandatory to have a 4 x 4 SUV. But Hatchbacks & sedans should be avoided due to low ground clearance.
FUEL PUMPS
There are no Fuel Pumps at Tsomoriri. The nearest pump would be at KARU or UPSHI & if you are exiting on the Manli-Leh Highway, then the next Petrol Pump would be at TANDI in Himachal Pradesh. At Pangong & Tsomoriri, you can get fuel stored by Dhabawalas, but the rates would be high & the quality of the Petrol / Diesel would be a question mark.
- If you are planning to visit Tsomoriri via Chumathang / Debring & exit at Manali, you should make arrangement of fuel for the next 560 – 600 kms.
- If you intend to travel LEH-PANGONG- TSOMORIRI (via Chusul) – MANALI then you should make arrangement of fuel for the next 750 kms. In case you intend to add HANLE & UMLING LA to this circuit, add provision for another 300 kms of Fuel.
- If you intend to travel LEH-NUBRA (Hunder)-PANGONG-HANLE-TSOMORIRI (via CHUSUL), then you need to make a provision of 900 kms. If you are adding TURTUK, SUMUR & PANAMIK, then add another 250 kms.
- In Hilly terrains, your vehicle may not get the best of the average considering off roading, low gear drives, steep inclines etc. You can safely consider the fuel average which your vehicle gives under traffic conditions in metro cities.
- Do carry empty Plastic cans in your vehicle. Preferably 10 ltr & 20 ltr Plastic cans for a 4 wheeler & a 5 ltr OR 10 ltr Plastic can for a 2 wheeler depending on the way you intend to travel.
- If you ask me, I travel by my Bullet Classic 350 & I travel very light. I only carry a 40 ltr saddle bag on my rear seat. On the left side of my saddle bag, I carry all clothes & other personal items (including my DSLR). On the right side, I keep spares, tubes & 3 cans of 5 ltr each. Since I do the entire circuit most of the time, I also keep 4 x 1 ltr Bisleri bottles filled with Petrol in the 4 pockets of the saddle bags.
MOBILE SERVICES
- No prepaid connections are allowed in Jammu & Kashmir.
- If you prefer to remain connected most of the time, I would strongly recommend that you buy a BSNL postpaid SIM card from your hometown before you proceed to Ladakh.
- Although Vodafone, Airtel & Jio have their presence in Leh & in some nearby places, it may not work in remote locations. Barring a couple of days in Leh, you would be mostly travelling in remote locations only & would remain out of reach most of the time unless you have a BSNL prepaid SIM.
STAY OPTIONS AT TSOMORIRI
Hotel tariffs are negotiable & would depend on demand / supply conditions. If you try to pre-book them, there is very less scope for negotiations. If you are very particular about the facilities & the quality of the accommodation, stay etc. you should pre-book it.
However, the best option would be to start EARLY & reach EARLY (say by 03:00 pm – 04:00 pm) & directly approach the hotels. Based on the availability of accommodation, you can bargain for good rates. If you reach early and accommodation is available, you can certainly get a good deal & a choice of rooms / tents. They would be more inclined to close the deal of unsold rooms. If you arrive late, they can sense your urgency & may not be as responsive to your bargaining, especially if you are with your family. In an online / direct pre-booking, you may not be assured of a specific room. Mostly, those who are booked take the privilege to reach as per their convenience & end up with left over rooms (of course from the same category).
This, of course is in general & my views are not specific to any particular HOTEL /RESORT. Below list of hotels / camps / homestays in Tsomoriri.
- TSOMORIRI CAMP & RESORT
- Address :- Tsomoriri Lake Korzok village, 194101, India
- Tel. :- (+91) 932-050-1211 / (+91) 887-900-1171
- Email : info@offbeatescapes.com, info@tsomoriricampandresort.com
- Website : www.tsomoriricampandresort.com
- Price Range :- Rs.2,500 – Rs.3,000
- Facilities :- Clean & comfortable rooms with attached Toilets & Hot water (in Buckets), multi-cuisine food, Electricity Back up, medical facilities etc.
- Accommodation Type :- 5 Self-contained Rooms & 15 Deluxe Tents
- Review ;- Most recommended & a perfect place for a family to stay of course if budget is not a constraint.
- NOMADIC LIFE CAMP AND RESORT
- Address :- Below Korzok Monastery, Village Korzok, Block Nyoma, Dist. Leh-Ladakh.
- Tel, :- +91-9906229877 / 9906990975 /+91-9419178984 / 9779769670
- E-mail :- nomadiclifecamp@gmail.com info@thenomadiclifecamp.com
- HOTEL LAKE VIEW
- Address :- Tsomoriri, Korzok,
- Tel :- +91-9469457025, 09419345362, 9419299673, 9906248379
- E-mail :-tsomoririhotellakeview@gmail.com
- Review :- People who have stayed here have given good reviews of this hotel. Rooms are clean with attached baths & good views from the window.
- MENTOK GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Tsomoriri, Korzok, Ladakh.
- Price Range :- Rs. 500-1000/-.
- Review :- It’s a very basic guest house, but it has 3 rooms on the Ist floor with fantastic views of the lake. I have personally stayed here twice. Food served is basic, but very good. Toilets & bathroom are shared.
- GOOSE GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Tsomoriri, Korzok, Ladakh.
- Price Range :- Rs. 700-1000/-.
- Reviews :- Well, I have seen good reviews of tourists who have stayed in this guest house. From what I can gather is that, it is in the narrow lane opposite to the monastery. It’s being run by a family & the rooms are quite clean, but with a common toilet & bath.
- GOLDEN MARK CAMP
- Address :- Village Korzok, Leh-Ladakh,J&K, India. Pin: 194101
- Tel. : +91-9419370663 (Tsomoriri)
- Email : tseringnamgail9@gmail.com (Tomoriri)
- Delhi Tel. : +91-9716507246
- Delhi Email : info@offbeatescapes.com
- GRAND DOLPHIN HOTEL & GUEST HOUSE
- Address : Tsomoriri Lake, Leh Ladakh (J&K), korzok, Jammu & Kashmir 194101
- Tel. :-+91-99712 53990
- CRANE GUEST HOUSE
- Address :- Tsomoriri, Korzok, Ladakh.
- Price Range :- Rs. 500-800/-.
- Review :- Again a very clean & basic guest house with common toilet & bath.
TO SUMMARIZE.
In this article, I have tried to provide a clear idea of the various routes to can take to reach Tsomoriri, the associated circuits, the duration taken by each of them & the pleasures you stand to experience. If you find this article helpful, please share the same with your friends, families & contacts.
You can also share your experiences, add details / updates on the subject. You are most welcome to put forward any travel questions which you would have in planning a trip to Ladakh. Please feel free to write to me in the comments section below1
HANLE
In the entire Ladakh region, mostly tourist come with a set itinerary to visit the most prominent places. A commonly chalked itinerary would be NUBRA, PANGONG & TSOMORIRI. Typically, 7 nights at these 3 places (including 2-3 nights at Leh for acclimatization) & you can say that the entire stretch has been covered. However, there are quite a few remote places in Ladakh which are still untouched & non-commercialized.
Hidden in the Himalayas on the Indo-China border in the Changthang region is one such small village by the name of HANLE. It is one such place which is completely out of the world. Since very few photographs are published on websites, it becomes difficult for a first time tourist to judge the beauty of this place. Secondly, the remoteness of the place also becomes a decisive factor whether a visit would be worthwhile or not. Under the given constraints of a rationed vacation period, the time required to reach Ladakh & back (especially by a road journey), this destination often doesn’t make it to the itinerary.
HANLE is one such pristine virgin places which has a certain uniqueness compared to other Ladakhi destinations. Behind the HANLE monastery, you will see several dwarf sized mountains in the backdrop of a huge mountain. It’s something unique and can be seen from the HANLE monastery and the OBSERVATORY. Typically, after the first visit, when a traveller falls in love with Ladakh, you can expect him to explore more during his second visit & reach such destinations which I am sure he will never forget.
When I reached HANLE during my last visit, a group of 55 people from MUMBAI (my hometown) had reached there. Whatever homestay options available were completely booked & there was not a single place for me in the entire Hanle. A small dingy room (7’ X 5’) in one of the home stay was offered which no one would prefer to stay. Another option was an open hall in the Monastery. After a lot of to & fro between the village and the monastery, I was totally disappointed & approached a group of ladies sitting at one of the shops in the village. Although, I was travelling solo, one gracious lady with a very small kid about 6-8 months agreed to accommodate me in her house in the dining room area. Her husband was out of town & her kid was having high fever & there was no one else in the big palatial house except for her younger brother. I will never forget the kind lady and that house where I was served dinner & breakfast in the morning. I was moved to tears, when she said “it would be Rs.300/- for the stay & if you liked the dinner, give whatever you please”. People are so simple & kind in Ladakh region, such simplicity & kindness touches your soul. Truly, it was one of my best experience.
GEOGRAPHYCAL LOCATION
Although, the altitude is not exactly confirmed, it is slightly lesser that 4,500 metres which is the altitude of the World’s highest observatory located in Hanle. It is at a distance of 254 kms from Leh & 162 kms from PANGONG Tso.
BEST TIME TO VISIT HANLE
By road, both the access routes to Leh (Srinager – Leh Highway & the Manali – Leh Highway) remain closed during November to May due to heavy snowfall.
HANLE remains frozen during winters (November to March). The right time to visit is from May to September / October.
DO I REQUIRE INNER LINE PERMITS
HANLE is located in the Changthang region & is in the close vicinity of the Indo-China border. As such, it requires INNER LINE PERMITS. The standard format of the Inner Line permits does not cover HANLE region. A request to include HANLE in the ILP has to be made to the DM’s office at Leh. Depending on the border situation, it would be in the discretionary authority of the DM to approve the permit OR not.
The Final Say Lies with the ARMY
Even if you have an authorized permit, its not a 100% guarantee that you would be allowed to proceed beyond a certain point. Depending on the situation at the border, the ARMY may even disallow you to proceed to HANLE. There had been instances in the past, where tourists were made to return.
HOW TO REACH HANLE
Invariably, HANLE is combined with PANGONG TSO AND / OR TSOMORIRI lake. The following possible routes can take you to HANLE.
- LEH TO HANLE (via UPSHI – CHUMATHANG)
Leh – 34 kms – Karu – 13 kms – Upshi – 54 kms – Kumdok – 8 kms – Kere – 30 kms – Chumathang – 24 kms – Mahe – 19 kms – Nyoma – 25 kms – Loma – 50 kms – Hanle:- TOTAL 257 kms.
This is the most conventional route from Leh to HANLE. Drive till UPSHI is Ok. But beyond UPSHI, the road enters narrow valleys alongside the Indus river till CHUMATHANG. On both sides of the road, you will find high mountains and you would be travelling in a narrow valley. To me, the road was a bit kind of depressing to go on. The road condition is fairly good with some rough roads beyond UPSHI for about 15 odd kms.
The road from LOMA BEND to HANLE is completely tarred good roads. Be careful if you are speeding. At many places, there are bumps (i.e. the road beyond the horizon is a slope). You can’t see the slope beyond & once you go over the bump, the vehicle could jump causing damage to its suspensions.
2.PANGONG to HANLE (via CHUSUL)
PANGONG TSO – 9 kms – MAN –11 kms – MERAK – 26 kms – CHUSUL – 12 kms – REZANG LA – 19 kms – TSAGA LA – 14 kms – TSAGA – 20 kms – LOMA BEND – 50 kms – HANLE:- TOTAL 161 kms.
This is my favourite route. You would mostly be taking this direct route from Pangong Lake. This is the most beautiful route of travel. PANGONG lake is far more beautiful beyond MERAK. This route takes you through the most enchanting valleys and landscapes in the whole Ladakh region. It also gives you the opportunity to save a day & directly reach HANLE / TSOMORIRI. From TSOMORIRI, you can proceed via SUMDO, TSOKAR lake and exit on the MANALI LEH highway at Moore Plains. If you proceed to the right, you will reach LEH via TANGLANG LA & the left would take you to MANALI via PANG, SARCHU & KEYLONG.
3. PANGONG to HANLE (via TANGSTE – ERATH)
PANGONG (SPANGMIK) – 13 kms – LUKUNG – 35 kms – TANGSTE- 88 kms
– CHUSUL (via ERATH) – 12 kms – REZANG LA – 19 kms
– TSAGA – 34 kms – LOMA BEND – 50 kms –
HANLE :- 251 kms.
This is an optional route from Pangong to Hanle, but would be a longer one. One would have to backtrack to Tangste & then take a left to ERATH. The only advantage of this route is that it is a good tarmac road & would be a faster route till Chusul compared to the Pangong Lake route. For low ground clearance vehicles like Hatchbacks & sedans, this route would be ideal. Its very unlikely that you would be taking this route since most of the tourist opt for the scenic Pangong Tso to Hanle route via Man & Merak.
4.LEH to HANLE (via Debring – SUMDO – MAHE)
Leh – 34 kms – Karu – 13 kms – Upshi – 61 kms – Tanglang la – 14 kms – Debring – 31 kms – Tsokar – 33 kms – Sumdo – 20 kms – Mahe – – 19 kms – Nyoma – 25 kms – Loma – 50 kms – Hanle:- TOTAL300 kms.
This is quite a good scenic route compared to the Chumathang route. But distancewise, it is greater by about 40-45 kms.
THINGS TO DO AT HANLE
HANLE is a very small village housing nor more than 300 houses & about 1000 plus people. There are a few homestays in the village & a provision to stay at the Monastery. Since HANLE is not much frequented by tourists, there are no luxury hotels in HANLE.
HANLE MONASTERY
The HANLE monastery is one of the largest monasteries of Ladakh & was built under the patronage of the Ladakhi king Sengge Namgyal in the 17th century. Sengge Namgyal died at Hanle on his return from an expedition against the Mongols, who had occupied Tsang and were threatening Ladakh.
From the terrace of the monastery, you can see several drawf sized mountains in the backdrop of a huge mountain. These small sized mountains are visible from every place in HANLE.
Both, the HANLE monastery & the World’s Highest Observatory are located on two hillocks which are opposite to each other. HANLE village is located diagonally opposite to both these places.
INDIA’s HIGHEST ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY
Rated as the third highest in the World, HANLE’s Astronomical Observatory is located at an height of 4500 mtrs on Mt.Saraswati in HANLE. The installed telescope has a diameter of 2 metres.
This Observatory is being managed by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, Bengaluru. After conducting a research on various locations like TSOMORIRI, HANLE in Jammu & Kashmir, KALPA, LAM DAL & KAZA in Himachal Pradesh, HANLE was selected on the basis of the merits of its location, climatic conditions, highest visibility, clear skies & logistical convenience.
The cloudless skies and low atmospheric water vapour make it one of the best sites in the world for optical, infrared, sub-millimetre, and millimetre wavelengths. By some estimates, Hanle has 150-180 cloud-free nights, besides over 260 nights, that are useful for observations. Moreover, it isn’t affected by monsoons, thus experiencing fewer instances of cloud cover.
You can visit the Observatory & get a 20 minutes briefing about the detail of the Observatory by the volunteers.
You can also see the HANLE monastery on the opposite hillock & the dwarf sized mountains in its backdrop.
HANLE NIGHT SKY VIEWS
Try viewing the endless stars in the night at HANLE. Gaze at the unending, boundless, skies in the night. You would have never seen such a starry sky anywhere. The location of HANLE was selected for the Observatory on the basis of the cloudless skies, low pollution, low humidity & rainfall.
If you have a good DSLR camera with a tripod stand, try using the low speed option (2 sec or 4 secs) with wide aperture and 1600 ISO.
LEISURE WALKS
With a very limited population & the whole nature to yourself, try taking some leisure walks in the village or upto the monastery. The mystic beauty of the place acts as an antidote to the urban stressed soul. It’s a natural detoxicant. A visit to HANLE would remain etched in your memories forever.
PHOTI LA
At an altitude of 5,524 mtrs (18,124 ft), Photi La is one of the high mountain pass in south-eastern Ladakh. It is about 30 kms from HANLE and the approach road is a very steep dirt track. It is inaccessible during winters.
UMLING LA
Situated at an altitude of 19,300 feet and at a distance of 105 kms from HANLE, UMLING LA is now claimed as the Highest Motorable pass. UMLING LA is located in the close proximity of the China border & is hence classified amongst the most sensitive areas.
Being a high altitude pass, there is an acute scarcity of oxygen leading to breathing issues. Hence people with a history of respiratory or cardiac complications should avoid going to this pass. You may have acclimatized yourself quite well by the time you reach HANLE. However, UMLING LA is at an extraordinary height compared to HANLE, which leaves you exposed to AMS.
Conquering the highest motorable road in Ladakh was a fatal attraction for every person visiting Ladakh since decades far before Ladakh shot to popularity after the release of “3 IDIOTS” in 2009. A visit to Khardung La was seen as an achievement. The much hyped Khardung La pass still bears the signs of the highest motorable road at 18,379 feet. Contrary to these claims, its actual elevation was found to be 17,582 feet only. It is heard that what existed at 18,379 feet was a mule track, but there are no signs of tarred road at that height. Competing claims from SENO LA in Tibet at 18,258 feet, MARSIMIK LA in Ladakh at 18,314 feet & MANA LA in Uttarakhand at 18,406 feet on the INDO-TIBET border continued to hound the title of the Highest Motorable pass. Finally BRO constructed roads across the UMLING LA pass at a staggering height of 19,300 & sealed the victory to the debated title with this remarkable achievement.
CAN I TRAVEL TO UMLING LA
Due to the close proximity of the UMLING LA pass to the Indo-China border, this road was restricted ever since it was built in 2017. Since there was no specific permit announced, tourists with a HANLE permit started visiting this pass in 2017 & 2018. There were no check posts between Hanle & Umling La to regulate the inflow of bikers / tourists. Very soon, achieving triumph over the newly proclaimed “World’s Highest Motorable Pass”, UMLING LA became the fatal desire of every adventure seeking soul. HANLE started seeing a sizeable inflow of such adventure enthusiasts / bikers.
Subsequently, the border sensitive area was regulated by the Army & it started stopping tourists venturing in that direction.
As on date 2021, visit to UMLING LA is not permitted. In fact, there is no provision for permits itself from the D.M.’s office in LEH.
I would suggest avoiding any short cuts / bypass roads to reach UMLING LA, since motorists had been apprehended in the past doing so. It is better to get it clarified at Leh D.C.’s office & refrain from bypassing any restrictive guidelines.
GEOGRAPHY
UMLING LA is situated at a distance of 105 kms from HANLE, 360 kms from Leh & at an altitude of 19,300 feet.
WEATHER CONDITIONS
The entire region experiences high velocity winds & temperatures in minus most of the time during the year. It is reported that summers see a temperature of – 10 deg.C to -20 deg.C. Winters are reported to dip further upto – 40 deg. C.
Please ensure that you carry a thick jacket to take care of the cold. Road conditions being varied from loose gravel, muddy roads, steep climbs, river crossings, it is recommended to have all seasons footwear, thick gloves & proper face gear etc.
Permits for UMLING LA
Given the present scenario of Chinese ingression in the Pangong Sector of the Indian territory, NO PERMITS are issued for UMLING LA. It is also not certain, whether permits would be issued in future OR not. In case, you manage to get the permits, you can have the following 3 options to reach UMLING LA.
ROUTES to reach UMLING LA
Route 1: LOMA – 14 kms- DUNGTI – 44 kms- KOYUL-43 kms-DEMCHOK-UMLING LA
At LOMA, get yourself registered and cross the bridge over the INDUS river. After the bridge, the right turn takes you to Hanle, while the road on the left continue to DUNGTI, FUKCHE & DEMCHOK. A drive from FUKCHE to DEMCHOK would leave you astounded by the beauty of the route. DEMCHOK, a village partitioned in the 1962 after the Indo-China war has left its inhabitants divided by the international border. Under normal conditions, the Army permits the localities visiting their relatives across the border. Indo-Chinese border being in a stone’s throw range, you can see the Chinese roads across the borders. You are very much in the range of the Chinese Army observation outposts. Unlike the other 2 routes, you would approach Umling La from the opposite side.
- Unless you have good contacts in the Army, it is not certain that you would get permits from the D.M’s Office (Leh) to access this route.
- Even if you get a permission, there could be a possibility that access to this route be denied by the Indian outposts at DUNGTI or KOYUL.
- Photography on sensitive areas would be restricted. Hence please follow guidelines if permissions are granted.
Route 2: Hanle-Photi La- Photile-Umlingla
In case, you are able to manage the permits, this route would be the most preferrable route. However, you would not be permitted to descend from UMLING LA to DEMCHOK.
HANLE – 35 kms – PHOTI LA – 22 kms – PHOTILE – 7 kms – 1st BRIDGE – 5 kms – RIVER CROSSING (bridge is under construction) – 38kms – UMLING LA.
The road till PHOTI LA is a dirt track characterized with loose gravel & a steep climb till the top. Road continues to be the same on the descend till PHOTILE. Scarcity of oxygen at that level leaves your bike / vehicle gasping for oxygen. Beyond PHOTILE the road conditions improve and you would find yourself crossing a couple of water crossings over the Indus in the next 12 kms. You will finally come across one more bridge (river crossing) on the left. The straight road goes to Ukdungle. Cross the river here & proceed straight for the next 38 kms. Most of the road is tarred, but the last 10-12 kms would again be loose gravel.
Route 3: Hanle – 32 kms – Ukdungle – 28 kms –RIVER CROSSING- 36 kms – Umling la
This route goes through UKDUNGLE village & connects the Route 2 from the opposite side. The water crossing here would be on your right side, since you are approaching from the opposite road. However, the road via UKDUNGLE is a dirt track & should be opted if you are used to offroading.
AMS
Higher the altitude, lower is the percentage of oxygen in the atmosphere. Being a high altitude pass characterized with harsh weather conditions, proper acclimatization of the body is required. Hence plan your journey in such a way that you would ascend gradually & have spent a couple of nights at 15,000 feet levels before you proceed to Umling La. Proper hydration, gradual ascend and acclimatization would help you ensure that you don’t get hit by AMS.
ROAD CONSTRUCTION OF UMLING LA by BRO
The road constructed by the BRO under the HIMANK projects connects HANLE to Chisumule & Demchok village & passes through the UMLING LA pass. Considering the location, constructing a road across the UMLING LA was a difficult task. During summers, the temperature at the top is around – 10 degrees to – 20 degrees Celsius & winters are as bad as – 40 degrees Celsius. With oxygen levels dipping to less than half, conducting construction activity was a Herculean task. It was extremely harsh & rough conditions for the workers who were working there for a year.
As mentioned by Brigadier DM Purvimath, no one can survive at that spot for more than an hour without proper acclimatization & training. Acclimatization of the personnel were done at three stages in LEH, SAKTI & NYOMA for a period of 16 days before their induction at the construction site. Working season being limited, emphasis is given on the mental as well as physical condition of these jawans.
Captain Bharat Mani Choudhury, the doctor who takes care of health of the jawans in the entire sector mentioned that it is mandatory to have the blood pressure and oxygen level of each jawan frequently monitored. Oxygen facility was made available at different places for an emergency. The personnel were instructed to avoid drinking stream water, consume less spicy foods and have an adequate intake of water daily.
A TOKEN OF APPRECIATION for BRO
BRO personnel had done & have always being doing the unachievable. A very big thank you to every jawan & the personnel, who have risked their lives at such an altitude to give INDIA a feature in its crown.
STAY OPTIONS AT HANLE
Being a non-commercial & offbeat destination, HANLE has very limited stay options. During my last visit, a couple of Homestays including PADMA homestay & the Monastery rooms were surprisingly booked. I was accommodated at one of the house in Hanle.
- SONAM GUEST HOUSE / PADMA HOMESTAY
- Address :- Shakbar Street, Hanle-Khaldo Village, Ladakh.
- Tel. :- Mr. Sonam Dorje +91-9469224302 / 9419834944
- Email :- sonamdoray19@gmail.com
- Review :- Managed by a family, this is one of the most decent & hospitable places to stay in Hanle. Has about 10 rooms with attached bath & 2 rooms with common baths.
- HANLE HOUSE
- Address :- Near Panchayak Ghar, Anley Khaldo, Nyoma Block, HANLE, Ladakh.
- Tel. :- Thupstan Angchuk (9419818993)
- Reviews :- Tourist who have visited through Online booking website have given positive & good reviews of HANLE HOUSE
- KELSANG HOME STAY
- Address :- Naga Hanle Village, Leh Ladakh, 194101
- Tel. :- +91 9469462906 / 9469769642
- Email :- dorjeyangmo18@gmail.com
- HANLE MONASTERY
- Address :- Hanle, Ladakh
- There are quite a few rooms available at the HANLE monastery too. One can approach the Monastery directly for rooms.
PREFERRED VEHICLES
Any 2 wheeler of 150 cc onwards is OK, provided it is serviced & maintained properly. Although most of the riders travel on Enfield Bullets (I too ride a Bullet Classic), its absolutely not mandatory. Do carry spares, puncture repair kits, airpumps etc. Tyres are preferred to be tubeless although not mandatory. Puncture Repair become easier comparatively. For 4 wheelers, mid-sized, high ground clearance SUV’s (say 190mm & above) are preferred. Its not mandatory to have a 4 x 4 SUV. But Hatchbacks & sedans should be avoided due to low ground clearance.
TO SUMMARIZE
The above article would guide you to undertake necessary steps to equip yourself to plan your trip to HANLE. I have tried to elaborate as much as possible on the Itinerary to be selected, the routes details, stay options and the duration you can spend in HANLE & the surrounding areas. If you find this article helpful, please share the same with your friends, families & contacts.
You can also share your experiences, add details / updates on the subject. You are most welcome to put forward any travel questions which you would have in planning a trip to Ladakh. Please feel free to write to me in the comments section below.